>> Shortly after Yvan Mispelaere, who designed Chloe's Spring/Summer 2007 collection, defected to work under Frida Giannini at Gucci, Chloe has finally announced a replacement for Phoebe Philo. Paulo Melim Andersson, the new creative director, comes to Chloe after being the design director of Marni for seven years. I have to say, I hope he points Chloe in a direction with his Fall 2007 collection -- it seems like Chloe's been stuck in the Phoebe years (all the babydolls, anyone?) even after (and ever since) Phoebe left.
Posts for October 11th 2006
>> The only show I was able to catch at New York Fashion Week that she also attended was Doo.Ri. The woman sitting in front of me had a camera zoomed in on her the entire show, constantly taking pictures -- perhaps to catch reactions? And we wonder why she pulls on her trademark Chanel sunnies as soon as the lights go down -- I probably would too if I felt like half the audience was watching me instead of the runway show.
Ms. Anna Wintour -- the feared. I don't agree with most of the stylistic choices she makes, but business-wise, I think she's right on the money (no pun intended). She understands the need for fashion to mesh with business, fostering young designers and helping them make connections, and selling the most advertising out of all the fashion magazines. I just came across a three-year-old interview from the Wall Street Journal that shed some new light for me on Ms. Wintour -- she came across very positively. As much as we love to hate her, I do think that we should step back and recognize the good things she has done. Besides, Vogue wouldn't have kept her around this long if she wasn't making a weighty contribution or two.
>> In Asia, Du Juan is "pretty -- not stunning, but pretty." Lu Yan "is known, not unaffectionately, as the Ugly Duckling." Even Hye Park is "plain."
The discrepancy between what is beautiful in the West and what is beautiful in the East is definitely discernable: "Western photographers look for character but with the Chinese it's different," says Angelica Cheung, editor of Chinese Vogue. And as designers expand more and more in Asia, maximizing on the spending power and trying to appeal to a new group of consumers, the face of fashion is forced to change once again. Will the designers cast two different ad campaigns -- one to appeal to the Western idea of beauty and one to appeal to the Eastern ideal? Or will they find somehow to bridge both ideals?
Some say Du Juan is the first to start building that bridge. I say it's going to take a lot more effort than one person. But I do look forward to seeing the outcome -- I've always loved fashion for this reason. It's forced to be everchanging, chameleonic. Always a sense of mystery, of what's coming next, and how it will adapt.
** all quotes from The Independent