fashionologie

Jourdan Dunn Talks Pregnancy, the "Unnecessary Competition" Among Black Models, and Joins Sessilee, Chanel, and Arlenis in i-D

fashionologie — Fri, 28 Aug 2009 13:00:41 -0700

>> Jourdan Dunn, Sessilee Lopez, Chanel Iman, and Arlenis Sosa Pena reunited a year after the all-black issue of Vogue Italia to shoot the September 2009 cover of i-D under a railroad arch and next to a go-kart track in East London.

Jourdan is pregnant (she's due in December - with a boy, according to Sessilee) and chats with i-D about how she may be out for a season, but doesn't plan on leaving the scene. As for the father of her child, who she's generally very private about: "My boyfriend didn't even know I was a model when I started going out with him and we've been together for three years now. It's hard, you never really know whether people want to be around Jourdan or Jourdan Dunn, and he's been there from when I was just Jourdan."

Edward Enninful, who styled the shoot - which can be seen here - calls Jourdan "reserved" in the video below, but she's very outspoken when it comes to her work: "There are loads of black models working and the idea that there's only a few of us, or four of us, to let in as top models at any one time is just bullsh*t. It creates an unnecessary competition when we should be standing together."

Chanel chimes in: "It usually takes an ethnic girl - I'm not saying black, I'm saying ethnic, let's make that clear - twice as long. We've gotta work extra-hard to stay in the game and stay with the girls who do well but aren't ethnic. Some girls can skip seasons, but us ethnic girls, we cannot skip a season because that'll kill us."

Video: Straight from the i-D shoot! »

Peter Lindbergh Goes Light on Retouching Again, This Time with Supermodels for Harper's Bazaar

fashionologie — Tue, 11 Aug 2009 17:30:51 -0700

>> Peter Lindbergh seems to be quite taken with this no-makeup, minimal-to-no retouching concept: In April, he captured Eva Herzigova, Ines de la Fressange, and a slew of European actresses without makeup or retouching for French Elle. A month after, he told the New York Times that he was tired of subjects in fashion magazines looking like overly-Photoshopped “objects from Mars": “My feeling is that for years now it has taken a much too big part in how women are being visually defined today. Heartless retouching should not be the chosen tool to represent women in the beginning of this century.”

Lindbergh continues to lead the charge against excessive retouching, this time by capturing supermodels Amber Valletta, Nadja Auermann, Helena Christensen, Shalom Harlow, Claudia Schiffer, Tatjana Patitz, Cindy Crawford, and Kristen McMenamy without makeup or excessive retouching for Harper's Bazaar's September 2009 issue.

Scott Sternberg Turns His Polaroid Lens on Marisa Tomei for Boy Fall 2009

fashionologie — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 17:37:06 -0700

>> Every season, Scott Sternberg produces his lookbook with an impromptu shoot - no hair, no makeup, no lights - and an old Polaroid camera. In the past, he's photographed Michelle Williams, Kirsten Dunst, and Sarah Silverman, but for Fall 2009, he photographed Marisa Tomei last Thursday at the Chateau Marmont and Bar Marmont in Los Angeles, sneaking into the kitchen for a taste of the food and chatting on the telephone.

Steven Meisel, Vogue Italia Love Their Ladies Over 40: Linda Evangelista for August 2009; Daphne Guinness to Appear in September

fashionologie — Wed, 05 Aug 2009 14:28:42 -0700

>> Steven Meisel seems to have temporarily moved on from his usual just-signed-model cover fare for Vogue Italia to women with a little more life experience - 42-year-old Kristen McMenamy was on the cover and heavily featured in the July 2009 issue, and now, for the August 2009, it's all about 44-year-old Linda Evangelista, whose image is juxtaposed on the cover with the phrase "refined style."

We've only got clues - no names - about who will be the September multiple cover stars - but the tradition will be carried on in that issue by 41-year-old Daphne Guinness, who was photographed by Steven Klein in July for a 20-plus-page editorial based on a 60's cult French film that she promises will be "darker and moodier. A new side of me.”

A First Peek at a Shoot From the New POP

fashionologie — Tue, 28 Jul 2009 18:26:24 -0700

>> The new rendition of POP, post-Katie Grand, comes out in a little over a month on Sept. 1, but until now we haven't had many clues, save new editor Dasha Zhukova talking to this month's Interview. The first peek at the magazine's contents and aesthetic direction comes today, when the staff posted pictures from a shoot that took place in London's Shoreditch studios last week. Tamara Rothstein styled big-haired, dark-eyed Hannah Rundlof and Melo Dagault as 1940s film noir femme fatales, pairing "Margiela with Westwood, McQueen against Watanabe’s padded extravagance" as photographer Tung Walsh captured it all - more pictures here.

fashionologie — Tue, 28 Jul 2009 11:19:19 -0700

>> Olivier Zahm Teases Upcoming Purple Fashion #12 -Olivier Zahm took the upcoming issue of Purple Fashion - out in September - to the printers' today and gave us a peek at Terry Richardson's "Best of the Season" editorial that was photographed at Milk Studios in June. In the past couple of months, Zahm has offered a number of teasers on the issue: a Gareth Pugh spotlight editorial styled by Francesca Burns, a nude pictorial captured by Mario Sorrenti, a Venice shoot with Baptiste Giabiconi by Karl Lagerfeld, and a set by Paola Kudaki. [Purple Diary]

Vogue Paris, Three Stylists Turn Out 65 Pages Worth of Models in Iconic Brand Looks

fashionologie — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:48:05 -0700

>> Some thought that Vogue Paris's August 2009 cover with Daria Werbowy all decked out in Burberry check looked too blatantly like an advertisement, but in the context of Inez van Lamweerde and Vinoodh Matadin's 65-page accompanying editorial inside - with a plethora of models, each embodying a different brand's identity - it all makes sense.

It's a few of the magazine's usual suspects - Anja Rubik doing Gucci's "glam star" in fauxhawk, Kamila Filipcikova striking an eyepopping McQueen silhouette - plus a few new faces like Regina Feoktistova and Ranya Mordanova in Gianfranco Ferre and Junya Watanabe, respectively. The trifecta of stylists that produced these images - Joe McKenna, Emmanuelle Alt, Carine Roitfeld - prove that there is creativity to be found within the bounds of a studio shoot, after all.

Full editorial here: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5; gallery below NSFW.

Vogue Italia Rings In One Year All-Black Issue Anniversary with Barbie

fashionologie — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:07:33 -0700

>> Is an ode to women of color becoming an annual thing for Vogue Italia? In its July 2009 issue, one year after the iconic all-black July 2008 issue, Franca Sozzani decided to use only black dolls in the issue's supplement commemorating 50 years of Barbie: “Barbie has been an icon for whole generations which is why I really wanted to give a strong sign in step with the times, and dedicate the anniversary issue to black Barbie.”

The supplement features the dolls - which are part of the newly-launched "So In Style" collection and are designed "with more authentic-looking black features, including . . . fuller lips, a wider nose, more distinctive cheekbones and curlier hair," dressed, posed, and photographed in editorial-like settings - see a few more pictures from inside here.

Jonathan Kelsey Joins the Vampire Craze with Short Film "High"

fashionologie — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 16:11:30 -0700

>> Fashion labels have become increasingly enamored with producing short art films in the last couple of years, but with High, Jonathan Kelsey becomes the first shoe designer to throw his hat into the ring. Directed by Sara Dunlop and featuring designer favorite, French model and actress Joana Preiss, the four minute film latches onto the current vampire craze and delves into more violent territory than fashion films have in the past.

Kelsey says that was the idea: "Most fashion shorts I've seen tend to look great, but can feel like stretched-out adverts. We wanted something with depth, and a genuine narrative . . . the new winter collection [is] dark, loaded with hard edges and rock chick attitude. We wanted the film to reflect this, while pushing the envelope within the genre." The film was screened in London last night, where Preiss admitted, “I was totally involved in this vampire woman character, so I couldn’t sleep during the night and was afraid of the daylight."

The video! »

Prada Fall 2009 Lookbook: Doodles, Collages, and Head Substitutes

fashionologie — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 14:32:44 -0700

>> Replacing models' heads seems to have become a thing: Yesterday, we were talking about Donna Karan placing Toni Garrn's head on other models' bodies for her Fall 2009 ads, and today, Prada posted their Fall 2009 lookbook - and the full set of their Fall 2009 ads - with Meghan Collison's head replaced by a wolf's in one picture and a spiked sphere in another, Lara Stone's head supplanted by a set of red blocks, and various other models' faces subsituted with doodles and collages.