a little turn on the catwalk

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier's Fall 2008 Couture Cages Not So Cagey

>> Jean Paul Gaultier was high energy yesterday at his Fall 2008 Couture show, exuberantly explaining his choice of outfit to Hilary Alexander pre-show, and running through the fluorescent green laser beams that panned the runway post-show, poking Coco Rocha on the way.  For all of JPG's exuberance, I am less than excited about this sci-fi, cage-inspired outing.  Underneath all the decoration were a few solid pieces, namely a coral lace-like cage dress worn by Patricia Schmid and a tux suit worn by Sasha Pivovarova, but for the most part, a lot of it ended up looking less than luxe, especially if croc was involved.  *image: source

>> Jean Paul Gaultier was high energy yesterday at his Fall 2008 Couture show, exuberantly explaining his choice of outfit to Hilary Alexander pre-show, and running through the fluorescent green laser beams that panned the runway post-show, poking Coco Rocha on the way. 

For all of JPG's exuberance, I am less than excited about this sci-fi, cage-inspired outing.  Underneath all the decoration were a few solid pieces, namely a coral lace-like cage dress worn by Patricia Schmid and a tux suit worn by Sasha Pivovarova, but for the most part, a lot of it ended up looking less than luxe, especially if croc was involved. 
*image: source

Valentino

Alessandra Facchinetti Tries Her Hand at Valentino Couture for Fall 2008

>> Alessandra Facchinetti's first couture collection at Valentino represents a nerve-racking, generational hand-off, but Giorgio Armani was there in the front row to lend support and represent the old guard.  The collection had the palpable feel of a different designer, as it should — more structure and pared-down tailoring, with most of the detail left to the back of the garments, and more subdued colors than the pastels Valentino had been playing with.
Georgina Stojilkovic

>> Alessandra Facchinetti's first couture collection at Valentino represents a nerve-racking, generational hand-off, but Giorgio Armani was there in the front row to lend support and represent the old guard. 

The collection had the palpable feel of a different designer, as it should — more structure and pared-down tailoring, with most of the detail left to the back of the garments, and more subdued colors than the pastels Valentino had been playing with. However, Alessandra did stay true to the three most guiding parts of the Valentino aesthetic: femininity, ruffles, and of course, Valentino red.  In fact, that same Valentino red painted the final look of the collection — a stunning chiffon number.

*image: source

Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci Readies For a Vacation with Givenchy Fall 2008 Couture

>> Riccardo Tisci is taking a trip to Peru in August, and his anticipation birthed the Incan prints and alpaca blanket stripes that pepper his latest couture collection for Givenchy.
Anna Maria Jagodzinska

>> Riccardo Tisci is taking a trip to Peru in August, and his anticipation birthed the Incan prints and alpaca blanket stripes that pepper his latest couture collection for Givenchy.

Highlighter shades of fuchsia and violet provided shocking punctuation amongst Tisci's usual color palette of neutrals.  The emerging trends of knee-length leggings, transparency, and lace were all present along with the signature Tisci for Givenchy leather jackets and oversized hats. But I have to say, amongst all the draped jersey and deconstructed shapes, the two standout looks were similar pale, choppily-fringed minidresses.  

*image: source

Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix Bugs Out for Fall 2008 Couture

>> Usually Christian Lacroix's designs are a little too overwrought to speak to me, but something about this set sits just right.  Maybe the scarlet backdrop is to blame, setting off all the intricate detailing with its vivid hue: the peekaboo lace sleeves, the bell-shaped cocktail dresses, the gossamer tufts; or maybe I've just gone buggy for Lacroix's insect-inspired fantasy world.
Romina Lanaro

>> Usually Christian Lacroix's designs are a little too overwrought to speak to me, but something about this set sits just right. 

Maybe the scarlet backdrop is to blame, setting off all the intricate detailing with its vivid hue: the peekaboo lace sleeves, the bell-shaped cocktail dresses, the gossamer tufts; or maybe I've just gone buggy for Lacroix's insect-inspired fantasy world. If so, I'm not the only one: the attendees showered the designer with carnations at the end of the show.

*image: source

Gucci

>> A LITTLE TURN ON THE CATWALK —We've already seen a preview of the Gucci Resort 2009 collection, and come July 8, you'll be able to see the full collection, live in Rome, from the comfort of your own home.  Just log in to Gucci.com at 8 pm local time — you might even be able to catch a performance by Goldfrapp, if the rumors are true.

>> A LITTLE TURN ON THE CATWALK —We've already seen a preview of the Gucci Resort 2009 collection, and come July 8, you'll be able to see the full collection, live in Rome, from the comfort of your own home.  Just log in to Gucci.com at 8 pm local time — you might even be able to catch a performance by Goldfrapp, if the rumors are true. [WWD]

Chanel

Karl Lagerfeld Goes Organ-ic for Chanel Fall 2008 Couture

>> Seeing a Chanel couture collection is a thrill, but the clothes are always rivaled by what new, huge installation Karl Lagerfeld has plopped in the center of le Grand Palais for the models to stream out of.  In recent seasons, there's been a giant tweed jacket and a larger-than-life carousel; This time around, it was a gigantic set of organ pipes.  The show started with a fugue of ominous organ music, and together with the central pipe installation and the tube-like detailing on many of the intricate dresses, reflected the inspiration which had come to Karl during a concert.  Enjoy the big production while it lasts, folks — word is Karl is talking about reducing the Chanel shows to be more intimate experiences in the future.
Karl Lagerfeld Goes Organ-ic for Chanel Fall 2008 Couture

>> Seeing a Chanel couture collection is a thrill, but the clothes are always rivaled by what new, huge installation Karl Lagerfeld has plopped in the center of le Grand Palais for the models to stream out of.  In recent seasons, there's been a giant tweed jacket and a larger-than-life carousel; This time around, it was a gigantic set of organ pipes

The show started with a fugue of ominous organ music, and together with the central pipe installation and the tube-like detailing on many of the intricate dresses, reflected the inspiration which had come to Karl during a concert. 

Enjoy the big production while it lasts, folks — word is Karl is talking about reducing the Chanel shows to be more intimate experiences in the future.
*image: source

Christian Dior

John Galliano Plays Peekaboo with Fall 2008 Dior Couture

>> Transparency is still the word, in John Galliano's mind.  The beanie-sporting designer had Lisa Fonssagrives, wife to Irving Penn and oft-credited as the first supermodel, in mind when producing his typical voluminous dresses, but with layers of light chiffon, rather than the heavier, stiffer fabrics Christian Dior couture has boasted in recent seasons.  Frequent collaborator Stephen Jones, meanwhile, looked to Eduardo Garcia Benito, famous for his '20s Vogue cover illustrations of women in cloches, when creating the accompanying skull cap-cum-cloches.
Kim Noorda

>> Transparency is still the word, in John Galliano's mind.  The beanie-sporting designer had Lisa Fonssagrives, wife to Irving Penn and oft-credited as the first supermodel, in mind when producing his typical voluminous dresses, but with layers of light chiffon, rather than the heavier, stiffer fabrics Christian Dior couture has boasted in recent seasons. 

Frequent collaborator Stephen Jones, meanwhile, looked to Eduardo Garcia Benito, famous for his '20s Vogue cover illustrations of women in cloches, when creating the accompanying skull cap-cum-cloches.

Peplums were aplenty and Galliano couldn't help himself, sneaking a little leopard print into the bunch.  But the unifying thought with this collection seems to be: What will we see on newfound Dior client Carla Bruni-Sarkozy first?
*image: source, source

Chloe

Hannah MacGibbon Channels Phoebe Philo for First Chloe Collection

>>  Introducing a first look at Hannah MacGibbon for Chloe.

>>  Introducing a first look at Hannah MacGibbon for Chloe. This is new creative director's first collection for the brand since she succeeded Paolo Melim Andersson a week after he debuted his Fall 2008 Chloe collection.  As you'll remember, Hannah worked closely with Pheobe Philo from 2001 to 2006 when she helmed Chloe, and the Philo influence is definitely palpable in the color palette, the filmy loose blouses, the city shorts.

I'm a little disappointed with this collection — too much Gap likeness, not enough wow factor.  But I'll reserve judgment for the Spring 2009 collection.  A couple more looks available here.

*image: source

Miu Miu

Miuccia's Got Purple Haze All in Her Brain for Miu Miu Resort 2009

>> Sure, Resort collections are supposed to be the big money-makers, but it's still shocking to see Miuccia Prada present such a commercial collection after taking Miu Miu in such an anti-commercial direction for Fall.  From the few preview images available so far, Miuccia seems to be stuck in a purple haze; the most standout piece is front and center, a dress covered in Christopher Kane-line paillettes.

>> Sure, Resort collections are supposed to be the big money-makers, but it's still shocking to see Miuccia Prada present such a commercial collection after taking Miu Miu in such an anti-commercial direction for Fall.  From the few preview images available so far, Miuccia seems to be stuck in a purple haze; the most standout piece is front and center, a dress covered in Christopher Kane-line paillettes.

*images: source

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen Femmes Up Milan

>> Instead of opting to do a by-appointment presentation like some designers or a full-blown runway show like other designers, Alexander McQueen chose to present his Resort 2009 collection yesterday in Milan along with his men's Spring 2009 collection because "they both go into the shop together."
Kim Noorda
>> Instead of opting to do a by-appointment presentation like some designers or a full-blown runway show like other designers, Alexander McQueen chose to present his Resort 2009 collection yesterday in Milan along with his men's Spring 2009 collection because "they both go into the shop together."

He also wanted to play up the importance of resort season — get this — it makes up about 60 percent of his business. Given that fact, expect to see lots of the body-conscious cocktail dresses with neon punches, illusionary prints, japonisme-inspired motifs, and Margiela-like colorblocking in the next couple of months.

Full gallery of all 13 looks below.
*image: source