The concept of men's uniforms — those worn in the boardroom, on the battlefield, and at the ballpark — inspired Reed Krakoff to create a masculine Pre-Fall 2013 offering freshened up with feminine details.
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"I wanted to figure out a way to take the things you would normally find in a man's wardrobe and make them fresh and feminine," he said. To that end, the designer turned men's suits into boxy blazers, coats, and slim trousers for day wear. Skirts often came with asymmetrical hems and were paired with luxurious tops like a v-neck sweater vest in mink and cashmere or oversize raglan sweaters. Texture was just as important here as shape: Krakoff cut a bomber jacket from shearling, for example, and printed the pony hair of a topcoat to look like snakeskin. A lace t-shirt dress would have been a little out of place here, but dipping it in black rubber made it stand up to the other strong pieces in this collection.
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Photos courtesy of Reed Krakoff
Jason Wu Pre-Fall 2013
A day before he presented his Pre-Fall 2013 collection to editors and buyers, Jason Wu posted a photo of "Martha Hunt giving Jerry Hall realness" to Instagram. If Hunt was busy channeling that queen of '70s glamour and seduction during the lookbook shoot for this offering, it's because that's the feeling Wu was after.
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Extending the unexpectedly sexy tone of his Spring 2013 collection, Wu created a luxuriously worked collection of dresses and gowns that captured the liberated spirit of the decade. The sheer chevron panels on his evening gowns, for example, alternated with wide swaths of sequins that kept the wearer covered up. Elsewhere the sex appeal toughed up, with dresses and slim trousers in leather (or a graphic black, white, and yellow eel skin pattern) and belts accented by chain-link hardware.
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Photos courtesy of Jason Wu
Alexander Wang Pre-Fall 2013
"We were playing with this idea of blurriness and ambiguity," Alexander Wang said of his Pre-Fall 2013 collection. "I love the idea of intertwining and not knowing where a dress ends and a jacket begins."
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To achieve those kinds of shapes, Wang created dresses with attached scarves that wrapped around the wearers' necks. Elsewhere, some of the collars in contrasting fabrics like leather or wool that poked out from underneath the collection's jackets turned out not to be separate layers, but cleverly sewn elements of the same piece.
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The theme of blurriness got down to the material level, too: Wang chose nubbly Donegal tweed and jacquard for the otherwise pin-sharp suits in this mostly black, white, and gray offering. He also printed silk to look like tweed — further obscuring the line between what the wearer sees and what's actually there.
Michael Kors Pre-Fall 2013
Sugar and spice and everything nice: that's what the Michael Kors Pre-Fall 2013 woman is made of. Kors examined that classic duality by combining ladylike lace pencil skirts and floral dresses with tougher elements, like a black leather jacket featuring aggressive metal hardware.
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Kors found his muse in the actress Scarlett Johansson. "Scarlett takes me to Elizabeth Taylor, which takes me to Ava Gardner, and to Madonna. It's the idea of sugar and spice," he said. That Johansson will star in two productions set in the '50s and '60s this year — Broadway's Cat on a Hot Tin Roof and the new Alfred Hitchcock biopic Hitchcock — may have informed his midcentury silhouettes. Mink lapels rested on a round-shouldered black wool coat and a boxy green tweed jacket, and cigarette pants cropped above the ankle abounded where A-line skirts and pencil skirts did not.
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The finishing touches in the collection helped drive the point home: leather renditions of the opera glove in black and white and cat-eye sunglasses added punctuation to an already well-articulated collection.
Photos courtesy of Michael Kors
A Behind-the-Seams Look at Olivier Theyskens's Spring 2013 Show

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Olivier Theyskens's Spring 2013 collection for Theyskens' Theory was filled with softness and light — but that doesn't mean it was any easier to create than his other clothing. A behind-the-scenes video shot by Theyskens's friend Olivier Bourdon reveals the labor-intensive processes of designing garments, styling runway looks, and prepping models — sometimes sewing the clothes right onto them. A look at how it all came together in the video below.
Best Moments From the 2012 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show
Veteran Angels and wide-eyed newcomers alike took to the catwalk last month for Victoria's Secret's annual Fashion Show in New York City. Constance Jablonski (who has three VS shows already under her belt) told us that she looks forward to doing the show every year "because I can be myself, show my personality, interact with the crowd, and just have fun." And, just as Jablonski promised, the night certainly brought plenty of all of that — and more. The opening sequence of circus performers, stilt walkers, and acrobats provided plenty of treats for the eye from the get-go, but it was Adriana Lima's show-starting strut and ringmaster's getup (cape, top hat, and gilded over-the-knee boots) that really got the crowd in the mood.
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In a segment called "Dangerous Liaisons," Lily Donaldson, Miranda Kerr, and Doutzen Kroes sauntered seductively in feathered wings and Swarovski Elements-covered corsets, while Rihanna (who looked quite model-esque in her own right) provided the first of the night's musical performances. Bruno Mars and his bopping group of jazz musicians stormed the runway for a segment titled "Calendar Girls": Erin Heatherton played January in golden wings and a Happy New Year sash, Hilary Rhoda made her VS catwalk debut in a St. Patrick's Day shamrock ensemble, and Karlie Kloss powered through November in a giant feathered headdress that is sure to get tongues wagging.
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Clad in bright white and surrounded by a dozen backup dancers, Justin Bieber delivered a high-energy performance that had everyone — including first time VS catwalkers Cara Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn — sashaying and dancing their hearts out. "I never thought I'd be doing the robot in the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show," Dunn had revealed to us backstage before the show, but if she was nervous on the runway you definitely couldn't tell. With her cheeky gaze and razor-sharp moves, she looked like a seasoned pro.
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The show airs on CBS on Dec. 4; preview all the action here.
Calvin Klein Concept and Denim Spring 2013
Why should runway collections have all the fun? To present the Spring 2013 wares from its sportswear, denim, underwear, and accessories lines, Calvin Klein constructed the first floor of a home in an all-white space using 2x4 studs painted black.
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The space made a perfect backdrop for models to display next season's various products. While some languished in Calvin Klein's iconic underwear and jeans, others wore new striped designs that echo Francisco Costa's stark black and white collection for Spring. The modernist designs were tempered with pops of color or prints.
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Hanneli Mustaparta, the model-turned-blogger who has been helping Calvin Klein raise its digital profile since earlier this year, was on hand to take pictures of the collection. A look at the setup — and all the clothes — here in the gallery.
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Photos courtesy of Calvin Klein
Paris Runway Recap: The Best Bags of Spring 2013
From Chloé's new colorblocked Amelia shoulder style to Chanel's amazing hula-hoop pouch, the runways of Paris offered no shortage of gorgeous bags. Herein, the very chicest of them all.
Elie Saab Spring 2013
Lebanese designer Elie Saab was feeling monochromatic for the Spring 2013 season. He sent down a bevy of all-blue, head-to-toe turquoise, and entirely blush looks in all silhouettes and styles: dresses, silk blouses with trousers, shorts suits. Each look even came with its own matching bag. But after a matchy matchy start, Saab switched things up with a handful of colorful printed pieces that lit up the catwalk. Then it was more monochromatic styles in red, black, and white before the designer finished strong with what he's best known for: dramatic, jaw-dropping, red carpet-worthy gowns.
Miu Miu Spring 2013
Miuccia Prada has never been shy about referencing the '50s or '60s (we submit Prada's Fall 2011 and Spring 2012 collections as proof of this), but her Spring 2013 collection for Miu Miu took the two decades' ladylike style and subverted it with unexpected materials and accents.
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The first look that came down the runway? A dark denim coat and high-waisted skirt paired with a white midriff top and green leather gloves. The styling here was '60s couture, but the attitude was uniquely modern. The same can be said of a few fabrics that look like they'd been tie-dyed here or there; shiny, almost plastic materials on elegant coats and skirts; and brightly colored furs with unregulated striped sections of black.
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The overwhelming feeling was one of contrasts, and Prada herself got to the bottom of that. "It's about elegance, not elegance. Couture, not couture. Tailoring, not tailoring," she told WWD. Was it Spring, but not Spring, too? That would explain all the lovely furs.







