>> Thom Browne has dabbled in womenswear in the past — he sold a capsule collection at Barneys in 2007 and 2008, and his made-to-measure business caters to a coterie of female clients — but for Fall, he's designed a small collection to be sold at Barneys, Colette, 10 Corso Come Seoul, and his own shop.
“This time I have more time to focus on it,” Browne told WWD of the relaunch. “For September, it will be a bit bigger than before, with more styles within the categories, but very focused. In the next couple seasons it will become a fully developed collection . . . This is something I really want to do and Cross [which owns a majority stake in Browne's company] is definitely supportive. I want to develop it the same way men’s developed — small at first, and evolving slowly.”
Is a runway show in the future? »
The upcoming collection, which is no larger than a rack's worth of samples, is "very focused on jackets and trousers and outerwear," Browne said. “I think it’s what people expect from me, very men’s-inspired women’s clothing. Gray flannel, navy cashmere. Good, all-American men’s wear influence, but fitting in a cool feminine way. I want it to be very understandable. Personally, when I see it on the girls I think it looks so good. I like the idea of men’s tailoring on girls. It’s very strong and sexy in a nonovert way.”
He added that the future could bring a dedicated Thom Browne womenswear runway show: “I don’t know when, but definitely down the line. You know me, I love to entertain.”