Marni Spring 2013 | Runway

Consuelo Castiglioni's "weightless exploration of volume" for Spring 2013 resulted in a collection that felt pared down, powerful, and right on point for the season. Roomy, sculpted shapes were the main story here, with silhouettes focusing on strong shoulders on top and A-line shapes below the waist. Leather and canvas tunics, shirts, and jackets were cut with wide, square sleeves, while deep necklines helped to underscore the careful geometry of each piece. Peplums with structured flares and skirts with loosely folded pleats gave a feminine airiness to a series of dresses and coats, and the effect was modern and elegant at once. And though most looks came in monochrome solids — black, dark green, aqua, coral, and lavender — Castiglioni didn't neglect her more playful side either; there were also optical Bauhaus-inspired prints, shiny jacquards, and a tinsel-like fur worked into the mix.