Marni Review | Fashion Week Fall 2013 

"It's austere but with a romanticism," Consuelo Castiglioni said of the Fall 2013 collection she sent out in Milan Sunday. Sure enough, this was a sparser, darker collection than fans of the quirky-retro brand have come to expect.

That's not to say it wasn't lovely in its starkness. Silhouettes were masculine (oversize coats with rounded shoulders, wide-legged trousers, and unfussy A-line skirts) and fabrics similarly rigid and mannish (wool, tweed, and leather in charcoal, black, and cement), but the romanticism and femininity Castiglioni mentioned was also plenty present. It came in the form of gorgeous woodland prints, pleats with sheer insets, and piles of lush furs.