Jonathan Simkhai may have made his New York Fashion Week debut just last season, but he's already been generating quite a bit of buzz. And if the crowd — which included several notable fashion directors and stylists — at his Fall 2013 presentation at Milk on Saturday evening is any indication, that excitement doesn't seem to be in danger of dying down any time soon.

Not that it should. Simkhai — a member of this year's CFDA incubator program — seems to know exactly what kind of clothes his cool downtown customer wants, and he excels at creating edgy-but-easy separates that could easily make up a whole wardrobe. This season, those pieces include a structured cocoon coat made from panels of navy wool and checked tweed, a quilted leather bomber, a black leather sweatshirt with checkered intarsia sleeves, and asymmetrically ruffled taffeta skirts. Also in the mix were custom oxfords, flatforms, and booties created specially for Simkhai by Shoes of Prey; in black, white, and navy they complemented the offering perfectly.