>> Elle's fashion news director Anne Slowey has sounded off on bloggers — particularly Style Rookie's Tavi Gevinson, before — which then prompted her to take to Elle's blog to further expound on her comments. Last night at ELLEvated, a forum of six Elle editors hosted by WFIT (the Fashion Institute of Technology's radio and television broadcasting network) in New York, the subject came up again, and creative director Joe Zee and style director Kate Lanphear, too, put forth their views on bloggers.

When asked his feeling on the Tavi phenomenon, Zee replied:
"The Internet has allowed people to be 'couch critics.' You could sit anywhere in the world, you could sit in Oklahoma, look at a fashion show on the Internet, you could post your thoughts . . . the Internet has made fashion a lot more democratic in this way. You know, Tavi, like her or don't like her, she's 13 — whether she even really writes it herself, the idea that she has gotten all this attention, it's because of the Internet, not because of anything else. [At Elle] we're talking about people who have really done this their entire lives, who've really covered fashion, who really understand fashion . . . understand the history of fashion, can critique it from a point of view, [can] actually relay it back to something they've experienced and understand. I don't think Tavi even knows what happened five years ago. She has every right to [post] on the Internet, she has every right to have the following she has . . . everybody can follow her and find her creative or funny or quirky or inspiring, but the idea is there are people here [at Elle] who do know the history and I think that Anne [Slowey] stresses this. It's absolutely true: if you don't know what you're talking about, then do you really have the credibility to talk about it?"
Lanphear disagreed:
"But there's also something beautiful about these fresh voices that can say something that maybe sometimes someone who does have a lot of credibility misses, or they see it through a really fresh eye. I think that's the debate that is going on in our industry full-stop, because we don't want to discredit years and years of experience and hard work and paying your dues and learning about what we do day to day, but there is something really beautiful about all of these really fresh perspectives that come out of the Internet."
Slowey then piped up:
"Well I think it's really subjective, blogs — they're not holding themselves up to the same standards that a journalist would, they're really just an expression. It's entertainment and it's fun. I think that you just have to judge people according to what they're setting out to do. Tavi's a unique situation because she's put herself — first of all, she's been 13 for like, the last 4 years — but she's put herself in the center of the cyclone. She swore she'd never sell out and now she's being paid by Target to do video . . . It's like, her father's an English professor, I don't know. Her editor at Harper's [Bazaar] said her copy comes in clean . . . I work with New Yorker writers, their copy doesn't come in clean. You can punch holes in that. But case in point, BryanBoy, he's the sweetest kid out there and he's just so excited about fashion that it's contagious. I love finding myself sitting next to him at a fashion show and listening to him just bubble over with enthusiasm. Maybe what he's saying isn't groundbreaking prose, the writing's not that great, but it's how he talks. So, I think there's room for both."
Lanphear added: "We're in the midst of an evolution, all these people that were outsiders are now sitting first, second row. They have fashion advertisers on their sites, or their blogs . . it's really changed the way that they've reported on fashion. So it's really interesting to see how this whole thing is happening so quickly."
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'She's been 13 for like, the past 4 years'
Hilarious.
Bitter much, ladies?? I love that people in print media get so agitated about bloggers. Maybe it's cause bloggers make their job look, well a bit easy. Hilarious. Garance Dore, Tommy Ton and Sartorialist are getting comissions from the big houses and sitting from row. Good times. Tavi is taking over the joint. A child has got these bitches pissed. Think fashion journos/editors etc may need a little perspective.
I agree when Kate says that it's beautiful to hear fresh voices and other points of view, bloggers have helped the fashion industry because many people look up to them but many bloggers don't really understand fashion like Joe Zee says, they have no clue what happened 5 years ago and many of them are just in the blog circle because it's a way to get and meet famous people.
I agree with Anne Slowey , there is room for both
This is a hard topic to debate so definitively. Some bloggers are more legitimate than others. Blogs are daily, they are easy to update and easy to maintain. There is less production, but in some cases that doesn't mean there is less legitimacy. What people have to understand is that anyone can have a blog, but you need to know who the voice is coming from. Blogs can turn into just as much as a news source as a magazine is, if you have sources, contributors and a voice that is all fresh and legitimate.
No video for this one
@JG8604: Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be video for now, but it sounds like it might be coming, according to WFIT's Facebook page:
http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/New-York-NY/WFIT-the-Fashion-Institutes-TV-Radio-Broadcast-Network/134873893951?v=feed&story_fbid=381539343951&ref=mf
I've been following Tavi for awhile now. Im not in the fashion industry, nor even care much about fashiotn, or the industry. But my business is internet, and I'm fascinated by the level of notice and influence this young blogger has managed to achieve, without any kind of self promotion on her part. And that is the key point I'd like to make. Tavi simply started to blog, and people took notice. And many still do. The influence she weighs now on the industry is simply because people, many people like what she has to say. She writes her thoughts and expressions, in her very unique and informed style - and people come to see them, on their own accord. The voice they hear in the bloggings touches them, amuses them, and inspires them -- and there lies her influence. The traditional industry insiders and influencers cannot blame Tavi for this. They'll have to blame every fashion enthusiest (inside and outside of the industry) who takes notice and reads her musings. And the argument I have heard again and again, that she is just a young 13 year old is simply a cop out - because influence lies where it lies... and it happens to lie withing the musings of a 13 year old girl, who started a blog.
I agree with Anonymous (04/06/2010) that blogging is simply for entertainment and that nothing else matters; but would add that one should not believe anything blogged.
"the level of notice and influence this young blogger has managed to achieve, without any kind of self promotion on her part"
A blog is essentially a public diary of the writer's thoughts; there's definitely a reason behind putting these thoughts on the internet --- it's because people think that MAYBE someone will care about the two cents worth of input they have on a subject. The motive behind this is definitely hopes of self promotion and being noticed.
If bloggers didn't believe in self promotion, they would have private journals or password-protected blogs that no one else could read.
What the editors at Elle don't mention is that their business is absolutely driven by advertising, fashion advertising in particular. I worked for several fashion magazines I can tell you, eighty percent of what they shoot, of what they write about, of what they promote, is from advertisers. At every run through for every shoot, we were asked, how much of merchandise was from advertisers. It's ridiculous to hear them talk about journalistic integrity, when they have NONE. Their magazines are just a prop for advertising. Blogs have advertising, of course, but not on the same level. It's a much, much more pure form of critique.
I'm a fashion blogger. I didn't go to fashion design school, or journalism school, but I know what looks good, I know how to spot trends, and I'm a good writer. Just because I don't have some sort of higher fashion education doesn't mean I'm not equally equipped to discuss fashion on my blog.
Bloggers give the every day internet user a fashion voice. This voice might be a different fashion voice from, say, Vogue.
The big magazines are just scared, that's all. It represents the demise of their empire, a change of the guard. Change is always feared when the outcome is unknown.
The big magazines are not scared and anyone who thinks that Tavi is not interested is self promotion is an ignorant. The point being raised by professional editors is that there is more discipline and knowledge behind their work, therefore the reader gets an educated and informed point of view. That might be irrelevant to many of you who don't care or work in fashion but keep in mind that it is a billion dollar industry. They are basically saying that high standards in journalism must be upheld. In addition, the majority of the collections that are being reported on are high quality, international, sophisticated designer collections that are created by adults that are skilled experts, so why would you want the opinion of a non-expert? Can they even tell the difference? And what about the photo stories? Can you imagine the beautiful fashion stories, which generally carry a grown-up point of view, being shot with a 13 year-old's angle? YUCK! For sure the result would be a lack of sexuality and a meek personality.
Furthermore, those who complain about advertisers' merchandise are forgetting that a magazine is a business, if the magazines were not subsidized by advertising dollars, then the price of the magazine would be very high because the readers would have to pay for the productions. And, they would surely not like that.
The bottom line is one doesn't splurge at a fine dining restaurant where the kitchen uses organic produce and the best ingredients so that your food can be made by an untrained or inexperienced professional. Well, then why should fashion journalism become the domain of the ignorant and teenagers with random points of view?
One last point, to the person who posted that influence lies where it lies: Do you have ANY regard for preserving quality in our world? Or should it all go to Sh*t simply because people like you find fashion an unimportant topic? Some of us care about the future of mankind and that mentality that is being nurtured for future generations and in this spirit quality -in everything -has to be welcomed, revered and celebrated.
I can't really get behind what joe zee said. This is coming from the guy who repeatedly defended Olivia braindead Palermo when she could barely do her job at Elle. And I don't know what they're complaining about- so what if the bloggers get free stuff and front row seats? Before bloggers there were random privileged people who got the same treatment- and they still do. I don't see how it's a bad thing that young people who have an interest in fashion should sometimes get similar benefits. And editors shouldn't feel threatened- it isnt like some huge revolution, and they're all going to lose their jobs because of it and be replaced by bloggers and have to buy a wang knockoffs instead of the real thing o the horror! The top editors (grace, tonne) will always have the power because they have a taste level and background and dedication unmatched. That's what matters in fashion- that the people in the industry care about what they are doing, work hard at it, and have a good eye. If in the future an editor started out as a blogger- so what? As long as they have the qualities necessary, fashion will not suffer.
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