>> While Riccardo Tisci is having a white moment, Karl Lagerfeld is continuing his play with the dark. Held at 10:30 pm, after the Paris dusk had faded to night, the Chanel show, called "Les Allures de Chanel," was dominated by blacks, greys, and midnight blues (save a couple of pops of fuchsia). The set this season featured a statue of Coco Chanel placed atop a neon-lit rendering of the Place Vendome column, and for the finale, the toecaps of the models' boots lit up. Lagerfeld said his focus for the collection was "a play on masculine-feminine — pairings of straight up-and-down silhouettes, versus curvy ones, cut from the same fabric." He continued: "I like the idea of metamorphosis — a female evolution from boyish to woman."