>> Francisco Costa built volume — and a nice dose of structure — into his Fall 2012 collection for Calvin Klein. There was a strong showing of dresses, most of which came full-skirted, long-sleeved, and cinched at the waist. Silhouettes were covered-up and slightly '50s, but pressed mohair, "technical" wool, glazed cashmere, and pebbled leather provided plenty of texture and edge. The result was forward-thinking, ladylike — and powerfully sexy.