Calvin Klein Collection Pre-Fall 2013 | Pictures

"The future is about new construction," said Francisco Costa after the Pre-Fall 2013 presentation for Calvin Klein. "You have to show something new."

What's new at this brand is a focus on generous proportions. Costa put rounded shoulders on generous coats belted at the waist like robes, and let slim skirts and dresses fall below the knee. Some of the looks were paired with turtlenecks or dickies (and a few were made from shaved mink), which gave the show a monastic feeling.

Not that there wasn't a little kink, too. One of those coats was cut from a shiny light-brown vinyl, and there were a few pieces — like a sleeveless shirt with a peplum and an overcoat — made from black leather.

Photos courtesy of Calvin Klein.