Mara Hoffman's Spring 2014 show notes promised her "brightest and boldest" collection yet, and the designer delivered on that promise in nearly every look that came down the runway. The first was a dashiki and trousers beaded in a serpent-shaped rainbow of colors. But pieces in an eye-shaped print — and a variety of other multicolored geometric and floral prints — soon followed. At times, Hoffman cooled her vibrant looks down by pairing printed skirts and shorts with white shirts in crepe de chine, but largely, she let the prints speak for themselves — for the most part, anyway: the last three words on her notes were the all-caps hashtags #FEARLESS #RAINBOW #VIBES.
Leave it to Rebecca Taylor to make sporty entirely girlie. That's not to say Spring '14 is all dresses and bows — far from it — but there's a lightness in everything from the pastel palette to the mesh and lace fabrics, even the denim.
In fact, it's all about the materials — cutouts, waffle-bonded mesh, and lace gave pencil skirts, boxy vests, and trousers an impossibly fresh feel. Fresh, too, thanks to new layers. For instance, Rebecca Taylor's girl, like most of the Spring pack, also wears crop tops, but mostly thrown over pretty sheer organza blouses.
See all the photos and video of the collection here.
Did you hear that? It's the collective gasp from the crowd at the Prabal Gurung Spring 2014 show as a clear box deep within the historic Post Office building filled with the industry's top models. The women stood stoically for the duration of the show, as each one filed out singularly to show off highly sculpted pieces in saturated shades of seafoam, lavender, geranium, and marigold.
The high drama of the presentation continued through the mixed-print mashups, laminated tulle, and abstract embroideries on bustled evening dresses. A plunging violet sheath is a guaranteed red carpet knockout — perhaps for Allison Williams, who was perched front row? Click through to see the full Prabal Gurung Spring 2014 collection.
With a remixed "My Boyfriend's Back" flowing through the loudspeakers at Jill Stuart's Spring 2014 runway show, we were ready for a collection of cheeky, 1960s-influenced looks. And that's just what we got. In a color palette that did not veer once from stark blacks and whites, lace and leather interplayed nicely, as did sheer paneling with, well, everything. There were baby-doll dresses with coy cutouts, chunky knits atop matching bikini bottoms, and Lindsey Wixson. Need we say more?
The Lacoste Spring 2014 collection was all about strong lines. From the wire cages set up along the runway to the booklet of old photographs — of tennis courts, in particular — awaiting guests at their seats to the piping on the collar of one of the model's polo shirts, the theme quite truly underlined designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista's latest show. The offering also toyed with tennis in more ways than just intersecting lines: A-line skirts and wrap dresses showcased silhouettes primed for movement, and parkas and lightweight jackets — in clay browns and rosy beiges — provided the requisite structure. As the show notes alluded, Baptista "continues to flirt with the paradoxes of sportswear." And that line is most definitely clear.
Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis must have been in a cheerful mood when they designed Suno's Spring 2014 collection — because in addition to being filled with bright colors and generous silhouettes, this collection was downright cute. What else could you possibly call a boxy t-shirt paired with a shiny patterned skort, or a white empire-waist top with a blue-and-white floral printed skirt, or even the straw hats many of the models wore down the runway? Cute, cute, cute.
While there was bold color splashed throughout this lineup (a hibiscus-colored top and skirt seemed to get everyone talking), a few white pieces festooned with Swarovski crystals really caught our eye. And, a sign that one of Summer 2013's favorite garments is here to stay, one of those pieces was a crop top.
The word of the day at the Helmut Lang Spring 2014 show was "slouchy." Think of it more as an attitude than just a description of how the low-slung pants fell just so from the hipbone or a boxy leather shell gently fell at the waistband. In a world where tomboy toughness meets architectural precision, Nicole and Michael Colovos found new ground to conquer in a mix of sharply tailored jackets, sheer dresses with geometric seaming and yes, slouchy pants.
One new thing that hit the runway is the debut of a new line of handbags from the brand, with sleek clutches in black and white stingray standing out. They acted as a perfect counterpoint to the long series of graphic black and white pieces, punctuated by a bright pink that seems to be the season's early frontrunner color story. Click through to see the full Helmut Lang Spring 2014 collection.
For Spring 2014, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville stripped down Rag & Bone to the essentials. With nary a print in sight, the collection combined athletic influences like judo pants and mesh inserts with a distinct '90s vibe in net-covered slip dresses. The brand's beloved blazers took on sculptural elements with graceful side folds and back cutouts. Pops of bubblegum pink and aqua brightened up the pale pastels that dominated the collection, grounded by black.
For those who love Rag & Bone's accessories, the bag selection looks greatly expanded from its signature "Pilot" bag, with crossbody hobos and top-handle totes that are a slouchier shape. Shoes ranged from ankle-wrap sandals to thick flatforms and chunky wedges. Click through to see the full Rag & Bone Spring 2014 collection.
For Spring 2014, Jenni Kayne took her laid-back silhouettes on a boating trip. The nautical inspiration translated to stripes, a navy and white palette, and above-deck-worthy tailoring as far as the eye could see. True to form, the most crisp of styles still had the easy charm Kayne does best, with pastel pink and edgy prints punctuating the collection with a vibe that'd be just as at home in the city as out to sea!
For Spring 2014, her fourth ready-to-wear collection yet first runway show, Misha Nonoo found inspiration not in a far-off locale as she has previously (Russia, Havana, and France have all been strongly referenced in past presentations), but in the abstract. Artist Gerhard Richter and his iconic squeegee paintings inspired the designer, who placed a similarly crafted "looking glass" pastel print on pleated skirts and tailored trousers. As for the rest of the collection, it was pitch-perfect Nonoo — well-tailored, delightfully feminine, and lusciously textured (we wanted to reach out and touch the georgettes and organzas) with just a wee bit of edge. Just saying, there was nothing abstract about those sheer track pants.