With a remixed "My Boyfriend's Back" flowing through the loudspeakers at Jill Stuart's Spring 2014 runway show, we were ready for a collection of cheeky, 1960s-influenced looks. And that's just what we got. In a color palette that did not veer once from stark blacks and whites, lace and leather interplayed nicely, as did sheer paneling with, well, everything. There were baby-doll dresses with coy cutouts, chunky knits atop matching bikini bottoms, and Lindsey Wixson. Need we say more?
The Lacoste Spring 2014 collection was all about strong lines. From the wire cages set up along the runway to the booklet of old photographs — of tennis courts, in particular — awaiting guests at their seats to the piping on the collar of one of the model's polo shirts, the theme quite truly underlined designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista's latest show. The offering also toyed with tennis in more ways than just intersecting lines: A-line skirts and wrap dresses showcased silhouettes primed for movement, and parkas and lightweight jackets — in clay browns and rosy beiges — provided the requisite structure. As the show notes alluded, Baptista "continues to flirt with the paradoxes of sportswear." And that line is most definitely clear.
Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis must have been in a cheerful mood when they designed Suno's Spring 2014 collection — because in addition to being filled with bright colors and generous silhouettes, this collection was downright cute. What else could you possibly call a boxy t-shirt paired with a shiny patterned skort, or a white empire-waist top with a blue-and-white floral printed skirt, or even the straw hats many of the models wore down the runway? Cute, cute, cute.
While there was bold color splashed throughout this lineup (a hibiscus-colored top and skirt seemed to get everyone talking), a few white pieces festooned with Swarovski crystals really caught our eye. And, a sign that one of Summer 2013's favorite garments is here to stay, one of those pieces was a crop top.
The word of the day at the Helmut Lang Spring 2014 show was "slouchy." Think of it more as an attitude than just a description of how the low-slung pants fell just so from the hipbone or a boxy leather shell gently fell at the waistband. In a world where tomboy toughness meets architectural precision, Nicole and Michael Colovos found new ground to conquer in a mix of sharply tailored jackets, sheer dresses with geometric seaming and yes, slouchy pants.
One new thing that hit the runway is the debut of a new line of handbags from the brand, with sleek clutches in black and white stingray standing out. They acted as a perfect counterpoint to the long series of graphic black and white pieces, punctuated by a bright pink that seems to be the season's early frontrunner color story. Click through to see the full Helmut Lang Spring 2014 collection.
For Spring 2014, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville stripped down Rag & Bone to the essentials. With nary a print in sight, the collection combined athletic influences like judo pants and mesh inserts with a distinct '90s vibe in net-covered slip dresses. The brand's beloved blazers took on sculptural elements with graceful side folds and back cutouts. Pops of bubblegum pink and aqua brightened up the pale pastels that dominated the collection, grounded by black.
For those who love Rag & Bone's accessories, the bag selection looks greatly expanded from its signature "Pilot" bag, with crossbody hobos and top-handle totes that are a slouchier shape. Shoes ranged from ankle-wrap sandals to thick flatforms and chunky wedges. Click through to see the full Rag & Bone Spring 2014 collection.
For Spring 2014, Jenni Kayne took her laid-back silhouettes on a boating trip. The nautical inspiration translated to stripes, a navy and white palette, and above-deck-worthy tailoring as far as the eye could see. True to form, the most crisp of styles still had the easy charm Kayne does best, with pastel pink and edgy prints punctuating the collection with a vibe that'd be just as at home in the city as out to sea!
For Spring 2014, her fourth ready-to-wear collection yet first runway show, Misha Nonoo found inspiration not in a far-off locale as she has previously (Russia, Havana, and France have all been strongly referenced in past presentations), but in the abstract. Artist Gerhard Richter and his iconic squeegee paintings inspired the designer, who placed a similarly crafted "looking glass" pastel print on pleated skirts and tailored trousers. As for the rest of the collection, it was pitch-perfect Nonoo — well-tailored, delightfully feminine, and lusciously textured (we wanted to reach out and touch the georgettes and organzas) with just a wee bit of edge. Just saying, there was nothing abstract about those sheer track pants.
If you're not having fun at Rebecca Minkoff, you're not paying attention. That's largely thanks to Janelle Monaé, who performed right on the Spring 2014 runway — but it's also thanks to Minkoff's eye for cool clothes, this time reimagined with a little Latin flair.
Sporty and accessible as always, this season Minkoff crafted her day dresses, miniskirts, sweatshirts, and tweedy moto jackets with an electric palette, bright florals, and eclectic macramé and embroidery. The lineup feels lighter and a little more romantic than usual; Minkoff's girl is less downtown, more surf town, right down to the backpacks and jewels. Though we firmly believe that the tougher footwear — knee-high gladiator boots — were made for the city.
See all the photos and video of the collection here.
If you're Cushnie et Ochs, with Karlie Kloss opening the Spring 2014 show and Chanel Iman closing it, things are looking very good indeed. The designing duo sent out the sleek, slash-happy dresses that are becoming their signature in white, black, and rich purple. Croc-embossed pieces added texture to the lineup that's perfect for a very specific type of woman — picture House of Cards' Claire Underwood plunked down in the power-loving '80s, and you've got your girl.
Deborah Lloyd transported us from the streets of Manhattan to a bustling garden party for the Kate Spade New York Spring '14 lineup, where the dress code was girlie but perfectly grown-up. You could see Brad Goreski's styling in the collection — print on print, his signature pops of color — but where last season bordered on cutesy, these pieces felt a touch more sophisticated with nods to Parisian stripes, pointed-toe pumps, and tweedy overcoats.
It's the uptown girl's closet made more accessible with sweetness, delivering exactly what the Kate Spade New York customer wants: bow details, a pop of pink, and ladylike fit-and-flare silhouettes. But for the woman who isn't buying Kate Spade New York yet, the graphic windowpane prints, chain-strap bags, and novel clutches might be the hook.