>> How does Tom Ford decide which pieces from his womenswear collections to produce? He makes Whitney, his PR, try on everything, and Carine Roitfeld, his former collaborator at Gucci, do the same when she's around. "If they don't wear it, it doesn't go into production," Ford says. "It's not about youth. Ninety percent of looking good is about being slim and limber — and how you move around." [Telegraph UK]
>> A tableau of models in vibrant hues met visitors to Sachin + Babi's moody Spring 2012 presentation earlier today at Pier 59. Against a video-projected backdrop and set atop alternating white cubes, models posed in softly-tailored separates. While there was plenty here to covet — a tangerine shorts-set with printed sleeves, an ivory-and-chambray shirtdress, perforated leather skirts — it was the accessories that really had the crowd talking. Heavy gold-fringed pendant necklaces added punch to sparkly maxi dresses, while Rorschach-inspired cuffs adorned wrists. Added bonus? The white peep-toe lace-up booties — so chic, and available at the newly shoppable Zara.com right now. Click through to see our snaps.
Photos by Christina Perez
>> Karl Lagerfeld, in New York to launch his Macy's collection, talked with Style.com about fashion's notorious vices, but maintained: "I never smoke, I never take drugs, I’m never drunk, because I like only what I’m doing — work, reading, learning, sketching, taking photos. For the rest, my lack of passion or interest for this kind of thing makes it perhaps too easy for me to judge others. I’m surrounded by people who drink and take drugs. It doesn’t bother me at all, even when I know it’s bad for them. I’m not teaching them."
Alber Elbaz, too, over the weekend, broached the subject of drugs: "I don't understand this marathon of fashion. Today, designers are expected to produce work that is bigger, better, faster and — these days — cheaper. A singer can quit once he or she has made ten great songs, a director can finish once he or she has made five amazing films, a writer just needs to write three great books. Now let's look at designers — they produce six to eight shows a year, most designers have a 20-year-long career, so I need to create about 250 collections in that time. Not even Danielle Steel could write 250 books.
Elbaz continued: "You start to understand why some designers do strange things, why some designers talk to themselves, you have to find a way of dealing with it all. I don't take drugs because if I did I'd love them — I'd be a junkie. And because I'm Jewish, I'd probably be a dealer too," he joked. "I don't go out to parties because I'd look terrible in pictures. My escape is television — it's like meditation to me."
>> You've seen the complete set of images Carine Roitfeld produced in collaboration with Mario Sorrenti for Barneys New York's Fall 2011 campaign, now see through Sorrenti's lens Carine's World — a two-part video following her through showroom visits with Rick Owens and Azzedine Alaia and a trip up to her apartment — complete with a peek at its view of Paris — all as she spouts off aphorisms like, "People are more important than the clothes. Clothes . . . it could be just like a nice envelope. But it’s more important, the letter inside the envelope than the envelope." She also notes: "I’ve never been an assistant. You don’t climb the stairs, you go down. Because when you go to a fashion show, the best walk is the first walk."
>> In lieu of a runway show or presentation this season, Vena Cava's Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock hosted an intimate dinner at MPD in the Meatpacking District, dressing friends like Tennessee Thomas, Stephanie LaCava, Kate Young, Nora Zehetner, and Lily Kwong for the occasion. “We really design for our friends so we thought this was a great way to do that and have a nice evening,” Buhai explained.
The collection, inspired by '40s films Buhai and Mayock watched while on a research trip to Vietnam in March, features a botanical marijuana-leaf print, wrap-tie skirts, and colorblocking. The label is also introducing intentionally-nondescript handbags for Spring, ranging $275 to $550.
>> "An ode to the explorer" is how John Patrick described his khaki-filled Spring 2012 collection, which featured a mullet-hemmed olive "parachuter" dress, and olive drawstring pants, also in parachute fabric. But at the same time, Patrick noted, the goal was to go "very classic" because he's "trend-averse" — hence key pieces like a classic white button-down or a wide-leg, to-the-floor-long pant, added to the offering. Patrick also introduced his inaugural set of handbags — rucksacks from recycled Japanese nylon; cross-body satchels and pouches from vegetable-tanned leather; and an oversized silk tote — the SLC, named for the show's stylist Stephanie LaCava — cut from necktie fabric. That same printed fabric also shows up on a bevy of shorts: in red, gold, and olive.
>> For the first time in over eight years, Elle has placed a model on its cover. Not just one model, in fact, but rather four: “We felt it was time to show the sexy side of fashion again, enlisting four of the runway’s super seductive models – Miranda Kerr, Chanel Iman, Adriana Lima, and Doutzen Kroes," says editor Robbie Myers. "These covers harken to what made Elle Elle: Shot outside, drenched in sunlight, color, and of course accessories, the women look right back at you with all the personal and sexual confidence in the world.” The four models, who appear on the cover of Elle's October 2011 issue — on newsstands Sept. 20 — were styled by Joe Zee and shot by Alexei Hay. Erin Wasson was the last model to cover Elle, for the magazine's September 2003 issue.
Watch a behind-the-scenes video from the shoot, below.
>> Here's a look at some of the highlights from Steven Alan's Spring 2012 presentation, which kicked off New York Fashion Week at Pier 59 earlier this morning. Picnic-ready separates in gingham prints and cheery hues were punctuated by wide-brimmed hats, leather-braided flats, and highly-covetable colorblocked bags. Click through to see snapshots from the presentation, with full collection images coming soon.
UPDATE: Full collection images have been added.
Snapshots: Christina Perez, Collection: Courtesy of Steven Alan
>> After the cash infusion Proenza Schouler received from 20 investors — led by Theory founder Andrew Rosen — in July, it was speculated that the money would be put towards a significant expansion of the label — in the way of accessories, retail, e-commerce, or potentially denim. It sounds like the last category will be the first focus: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who have collaborated with J Brand on jeans in the past, plan to introduce their first denim line in December or January. They were already fitting samples last week. [On the Runway]
>> When reports of Kanye West's womenswear collection first surfaced in July, rumors went around that he would show at New York Fashion Week. Now, it sounds like Paris will host the line's debut, instead. West, who is reportedly collaborating with designer Louise Goldin and stylist Christine Centenera on the collection, and Giuseppe Zanotti on shoes, is said to be working with a major stylist for the show, The Imagist reports: "Hiss hiss. Which ultra-power stylist is now playing in Kayne's camp for his blue chip Paris showing. And it IS a Paris showing kids!" West is also said to have begun model casting for the show at the end of last month. [@hisssquad, @hisssquad]