Rousteing said he wished to turn the label away from holey T-shirts and tattered jeans to give more focus to the Balmain's couture roots, and his efforts were rewarded. The Wall Street Journal's Christina Binkley noted: "From the look of things, Mr. Rousteing has a bright future." "I think he did great," said Bergdorf Goodman fashion director Linda Fargo as she exited the show. And Suzy Menkes called the collection "a hit": "Mr. Rousteing proved his weight in the gold he scattered so liberally on the collection."
>> Jones New York has just become the latest to go designer. Come next March, the sportswear company will offer the Wes Gordon x Jones New York line, exclusively available at select Bloomingdale's stores as well as online at the department store's website and on jny.com. Filled with what Jones Group CEO Susan Metzger refers to as workwear with a "new modern classic sensibility," the Wes Gordon x Jones New York collection features a selection of current separates: contrast silk tops, leather-sleeved blazers, swing trenches, ankle pants, and asymmetrical vests. Priced from $99 to $475, the collection is so far only confirmed for one season. Click through for a peek.
>> Alessandra Fachinetti marks her return to fashion — after a three-year hiatus following her exit from Valentino in 2008 — with her new line, Uniqueness. Shown in a presentation today at the Jeu de Paume in Paris, the 24-look debut collection is meant to blur the line between seasons. “I alternated timeless pieces with more eccentric styles, mixing practical, sophisticated, and childlike accents,” Fachinetti explained.
>> After cutting ties with Giles Deacon earlier this month — Deacon signed a four-year contract last year, but produced a black, dominatrix-inspired collection (left) when management wanted a more heritage-driven line — Ungaro is moving ahead, deliberately without a head designer.
Emanuel Ungaro chief executive Jeffry Aronsson, who joined the company in June, says he will instead rely on the label's team of 35 employees, including some who worked under Ungaro himself. "I'm not looking for a big name from the outside, because I don't want the development of the brand to be dependent on a big ego." He hasn't yet figured out who will take the runway bow, and adds: "I don't believe in overnight sensations. My goal is to revitalize the company in a sustainable way, not a flash in the pan."
Ungaro is no longer carried in any major American department store, and even several of the shelves in the Ungaro store downstairs from the label's offices in Paris are bare. Aronsson says he plans to woo retailers back; however, even if it takes a few seasons, by focusing on tops, loungewear like caftans, and capitalizing on silks and prints. "I want the retailers to see this, that it's a whole new page," he says of the upcoming Ungaro show.
>> Smoking slippers are the new ballet flats. Retailers are reporting that the loafers — in all colors, price points, and styles — are in high demand this season. Not surprising that we've been spotting the Hugh Hefner-style loungers all throughout the fashion weeks. Street style favorite Giovanna Battaglia was spotted wearing a multicolored fleur de lis pair in New York (top left) as well as a plain black set in Milan while T magazine's Jane Herman trotted to the New York shows in tasseled patent ones (bottom left). And no wonder. This flat is super versatile — and it hits just the right note for Fall: a little preppy, a little garconne, and super comfortable to boot. Click through to browse some of the chicest styles around — from cap-toed Louboutins to gray leopard-print J.Crews — all here in the slideshow.
Photos: all Greg Kessler, except: top right, Christina Perez; bottom right, WireImage