Miuccia Prada laid the groundwork for her Spring 2014 Miu Miu collection with the inventive decor for the show, giving the audience a glimpse at the charming prints to come with wallpaper panels. The coats were a clear standout of the cheerful show, with animal motifs emblazoned the sides of swingy single breasted styles while red trim and oversize buttons gave a charming gamine quality to a long navy peacoat. But if you're more in the mood to party, there were party dresses galore from puff-ball strapless dress with incredible ruching to give volume while maintaining a sense of lightness to slinky little beaded slipdresses with enough beaded tassels and fringe to satisfy anyone's inner Daisy Buchanan (or the jam-packed front row including Prada fans Michelle Dockery and Lena Dunham). It's not often than a collection is wearable and covetable, but we're starting a fantasy fund for that cat-print coat right now.
After all the appliqués and fringe and ribbons and flowers we've seen during Paris Fashion Week, Vionnet's Spring 2014 collection was a bit of palate cleanser. Creative Director Goga Ashkenazi — who bought the brand this year — turned out a collection filled with monochromatic looks, many of them in pastels, that looked easy, fresh, and imminently wearable.
News broke minutes after the Louis Vuitton Spring 2014 show that Marc Jacobs was exiting the brand after a 16-year tenure as creative director. And it was an elegiac swan song, dedicated to the women who inspire him and "the showgirl in every one of them," done solely in black with the occasional piece of denim. The first model hit the runway in a sheer body stocking bound in chains as the rest of the models paraded up caged elevators and down escalators to walk around a slowly moving carousel. The clothes were heavy with embellishment, shimmering like the marble buildings along the Seine as Marc bid adieu to the city that he's called home for so many years. While Jacobs's next steps are still unclear, he leaves the house on a dramatic high note and quite literally a standing ovation from the assembled fashion crowd.
LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault confirmed the news this morning, as Jacobs showed his final collection for the French label, a fitting all-black tribute to some of his most famous Vuitton designs.
Whoever replaces Marc will have some very big boots to fill. From bringing collaborators like Stephen Sprouse and Takashi Murakami on board to liven up the famous monogram bags to staging dramatic shows featuring steam trains and hotel corridors, he has cleverly kept the label current while paying homage to the heritage and never sacrificing luxury.
Insiders are already suggesting that Nicolas Ghesquière may be the man for the job.
A new season is upon us, and now that October's here, it's time to round up our must-have picks from across the network! From cozy Fall fashion and great new TV and movies to a treasure trove of page-turners and fun finds for the little ones, click through to see (and shop!) the best that October has to offer, straight from our expert editors.
Jean Touitou gathered small groups of editors in A.P.C.'s Left Bank headquarters to walk them through the Spring 2014 collection. With a piano player quietly turning out original renditions of hip-hop tunes in the background, models came out in styles that proved Touitou's statement that "fashion is proportion." Chambray dresses, including a rope-belted version from the Vanessa Seward-designed capsule, were perfect for Summer, while the array of jumpsuits were the epitome of French cool, especially when paired with a flat sandal created for the brand by monks. The section aimed at cocktail ("not night-night, but not day-day") were perfectly insouciant, while saddlebag purses in vegetable-tanned leather were their natural mates. As for Touitou's assertion that women dress up to look good for other women, we tend to believe that we'd garner plenty of compliments in these pieces from both genders (but we'd be shocked if our girlfriends didn't covet those shirtdresses).
The artists and supporters behind Prada Marfa, the eight-year-old outdoor art installation made to look like a miniscule Prada boutique, have responded to claims that the structure is an illegal advertisement.
Just last week, the Texas Department of Transportation declared that the store, which bears the brand's logo and is filled with shoes and bags it produced in 2005, doesn't count as artwork but as a promotional tool for Prada. In a statement today, artists Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset said they were surprised by the decision and pointed out that while Miuccia Prada donated the shoes and bags in the store, her only other contribution to the installation was giving the artists permission to use her logo.
"It is advertisement only when a company either commissions someone to make such a sign, pays for its execution, or makes a sign themselves in order to promote the company's products," they said in a statement. "And this is not the case here since Prada Marfa never had any commercial link to the fashion brand Prada."
While the Transportation Department hasn't decided yet what to do with Prada Marfa, it recently ordered that a Playboy sign put up nearby be taken down for the same reason. But Playboy was much more involved with the building of that sign than Prada was with Prada Marfa.
With that in mind, we're wondering if you think Prada Marfa should suffer the same fate.
Ever since Tod's owner Diego Della Valle announced that he was going to revive the Schiaparelli brand, rumors as to who would take its helm as creative director started to circulate. Speculations were put to rest on Monday when Schiaparelli confirmed that Marco Zanini was appointed creative director after five years at Rochas.
"The project is based on excellence and quality and a product linked to the future," he said of the re-emerging brand. "I think my great passion for these elements played a key role in my appointment."
Zanini will oversee both couture and high-end ready-to-wear collections, encompassing accessories, fragrances, and cosmetics. Among his many goals for the label is raising brand awareness, which undoubtedly received its spark from the 2012 exhibit Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations. We are looking forward to his first collection for the brand, which will be presented in January during Paris Couture Fashion Week.
Destination: Africa. Sarah Burton set the scene for guests arriving to the Spring 2014 Alexander McQueen show with a geometric runway and rustic wooden folding chairs that lined the halls of Paris's Garde Républicaine.
The clothing completed the journey. Infusing familiar silhouettes with an unexpected motif, Burton's warriors marched the basketweave sandbox in a global array of graphic red and black prints, patchwork separates, snakeskin heels, horsehair skirts, and hammered gold accents that included helmets, chokers, and stacked armbands.
Those accessories in particular would make stepping into war — be it in a feather-plumed gown or woven leggings — a battle won.
There is always regality at Valentino, but Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli's Spring 2014 collection for the house added doses of myth and lots of visual appeal to their queenly clothing.
The show notes said this collection was inspired by "imaginary ethnic groups" — but that didn't stop some editors from seeing Game of Thrones in these clothes, many of which featured bright bursts of color on dark backgrounds. A long-sleeved black dress featured blue and pink diamond shapes, and a black-and-beige striped coat had a long tail that brought point blankets to mind. Many of the pieces — like the technicolor dream cape Malaika Firth wore to open the show — featured fringe, which gave both garments and handbags a lively sense of movement as they came down the runway.
Long sleeves and conservative shapes dominated here. Perhaps that's why a short-sleeved blue shirt with sheer shoulders paired with wide-legged trousers looked so modern.