A motley crew of 1970s notables — Bianca Jagger, Marianne Faithfull, Bryan Ferry, and Twiggy among them — as seen on the pages of Peter Schlesinger's photography book Checkered Past had Carven's Guillaume Henry feeling a bit bohemian for Resort 2013. But that doesn't mean the twee gamine suits and collared minidresses that are his hallmark have disappeared. No, they're still here and, with their contrast sleeves and cheery colorblocked hues, they're just as appealing as ever. It's just that this time around they've been loosened up and injected with a newfangled sense of gypsy appeal: flowing silhouettes, drawstring ruffles, and paisley prints.
For Resort 2013, Rachel Comey offered up plenty of citified transitional options — and plenty of the brand's signature downtown cool. Among the standout pieces? A loose-fit peplum tank in soft black leather, a torso-skimming carrot-legged jumpsuit, and a kimono-wrap shift in Comey's newest fabric obsession: stonewashed denim. Also on offer were some terrific prints: a vivid mustard floral and a glorious pink wallpaper motif.
Thakoon Panichgul looked to the chandeliers of Fred Wilson and the "architecture of frosting" for Resort 2013, resulting in a cupcake-hued assortment that's sweet but not at all cloying. What gives these youthful separates so much appeal is the innovative mix of fabrics and prints — basket-weave linens, textured neoprene, floral jacquards, graphic gingham — and Panichgul's careful juxtaposition of geometric insets and softly rounded tailoring.
Relaxed luxury defined Clare Waight Keller's Resort 2013 collection for Chloé. Keller took her cues from '70s scarves, which not only led her to create the stylized purple-and-brown floral print featured on skirts and dresses, but also imbued the rest of the collection with softer shades of lavender, cream, rust, and khaki. Keller's square-shaped shirts, cinched at the waist with bows to create a peplum, were either trimmed in lace or given oversize sleeves. "I liked treating the fabric in a more luxurious way so that it had more structure but still feels relaxed," Keller said. The season's pants, pleated to create more room through the leg and slightly tapered at the ankle, serve as evidence of that easygoing sentiment, too.
With the first day of Summer quickly approaching, the number of dads, grads, and groomsmen deserving a little luxury is increasing by the minute. Luckily, there's no shortage of high-end essentials on the market that men of every stripe will cherish for the rest of the season — and beyond. Herein, 20 great pieces that are sure to make an impression when it's time to give the perfect gift.
Phoebe Philo's Resort 2013 collection for Céline showcased what the house does best: laser-focused, impeccably tailored separates with undeniable graphic appeal. Crisp, wide-legged trousers were a focus this season: some met the ground with a band of color, while others had tuxedo stripes in bright hues. Philo also turned out a few great pieces of outerwear, such as a leopard coat with blue leather sleeves and shoulders and a burgundy coat with multiple horizontal zippers that allow the wearer to create different lengths. Juxtaposed against the defined edges and clean lines were silk scarves tied at the neck, and bias-cut crepe tops draped to create a languid gathering of fabric at the neck.
"In fashion you have to doubt yourself right up to the last minute. Even if you've finished a collection and it's the night before you're going to show it and you realize 'Oh that's so wrong,' you have to throw it out, you have to get rid of it, you have to destroy it," he said. "So you're constantly doubting yourself. You constantly have to question yourself."
Still, Ford says being nitpicky about what he creates doesn't remove the sting of a bad review. In fact, it often amplifies it.
"Often, a bad review is right, and those hurt in a different way because you know in your heart what you're reading is right. You're quite raw because they come out the day or two days after what you've done when you haven't been able to recover from it," he said. "You're exhausted and you can't really see what you've created because you're too close to it."
Everything you need to know now — here, in our daily news roundup.
- Cat Marnell has quit her job as beauty and health director of XO Jane, reportedly over her refusal to stop using drugs. "I couldn’t spend another summer meeting deadlines behind a computer at night when I could be on the rooftop of Le Bain looking for shooting stars and smoking angel dust with my friends and writing a book, which is what I'm doing next," Marnell said. [Page Six]
- Leandra Medine, also known as The Man Repeller, married in a private ceremony in New York on Thursday. While Medine had floated the possibility of wearing custom Prabal Gurung, she instead walked down the aisle in off-the-rack Marchesa. "Prabal and I were going to try and work together but it just didn't work out," she said. [Racked]
- Lady Gaga's upcoming fragrance Fame is billed as the first black-colored eau de parfum. It becomes clear when the wearer sprays it on, and it contains notes of honey, apricots nectar, and tiger orchids. The scent will debut around the same time as Gaga's September issue cover of Vogue. [The Cut]
- President Obama caused a stir in New York City's West Village Thursday night when he attended the fundraising dinner hosted by Anna Wintour at Sarah Jessica Parker's home. While guests — including Michael Kors — broke bread inside Parker's brownstone, some neighbors were prevented from going into their apartments or relaxing on their rooftops. [Daily Intel]
- Christian Louboutin would like to make one thing clear: even though a French judge has allowed Zara to sell a red-soled shoe that infringes on Louboutin's trademark on red soles, the company definitely "continues to own valid and enforceable trademark rights in its Red Sole Trademark, including in France itself as well as throughout the world." The company is still battling a red-sole trademark case against Yves Saint Laurent in the United States. [The Daily Telegraph]
- Zac Posen — who has quickly amassed upward of 90,000 followers on Twitter — says that while he doesn't type his own tweets, he does directly oversee the woman on his staff who does. "I tell her exactly what to say — every word," Posen said. [WWD]
- With a week left to go in the campaign to fund his documentary Advanced Style — which, like the blog, depicts stylish women aged 60 to 100 — Ari Seth Cohen has already surpassed his goal of raising $35,000. [On the Runway]
- Singer Iggy Azalea has signed with Wilhelmina International, the same model and celebrity management agency that has counted Iman, Coco Rocha, Carol Alt, and Theodora Richards among its talent over the years. [Rap Up]
- Daisy Lowe says her most memorable modeling moment so far was "mud-wrestling for the Pirelli calendar in the middle of the street in Porto Seguro, Brazil." The most embarrassing? "Getting rushed to the hospital after my hair was dyed blue for a job!" [Vogue]
Photo: Tom Munro, Elle January 2010
Last but certainly not least: Creatures of the Wind's much-anticipated mini collection for J.Crew has finally landed. The collection — the third and final installment of this year's CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund capsule series — features four limited-edition pieces inspired by '60s psychedelia and rebellious youth culture. There's a glittery pair of oxford lace-ups ($295), a chambray and floral print zip dress ($350), a boldly striped tee ($195), and — our favorite — a matching cashmere cardigan ($245). "We wanted to design pieces that were totally functional but could add an interesting element to anyone's wardrobe," the designers explained. Click through to see the entire offering, all available now at jcrew.com and at the retailer's 5th Avenue flagship.
"This season we really wanted to zone in on pieces that women will want to wear every day," Suno designer Erin Beatty explained. While that may translate to relaxed silhouettes and easy downtown separates — boxy jackets, flared skirts, wide-legged trousers, slouchy shifts — it also means plenty of pieces that serve as excellent canvases for showcasing what Beatty and partner Max Osterweis do best: that is, creating dreamy, eye-popping prints. For Resort 2013, those prints come in a delightful array of colors and sizes, from rose-hued florals to jumbo graphics — all enticingly mixed and perfectly paired.