Rossella Jardini could have found subtler ways to announce the '70s inspiration behind her Spring 2013 collection for Moschino Cheap & Chic than by affixing a purple peace sign to the front of a maxi dress, but they wouldn't have been nearly as fun. In fact, this entire offering is fun: fun to look at and probably even more fun to wear. How could one possibly feel unhappy and uninspired wearing an orange neon suit with crystal-studded lapels, or a dip-dyed green-and-black shirtdress worn with a purse shaped like a pineapple? Pineapples showed up elsewhere as a print, in one case on one of the collection's many pairs of bell-bottoms. Mesh shirts and shiny coats in red and blue were equally irreverent — and so were a few sweet printed cocktail dresses shown with Moschino's answer to Saucony sneakers.
For Spring 2013, Daniella Helayel's Issa line is headed to paradise in the form of botanical prints, floral embroidery, and vibrant sunset hues. According to the show's notes, the designer was inspired by "the all-encompassing tropical leaves and plants" that one might see on an exotic beach holiday, and thus this season's batch of dresses came in breezy silhouettes so romantic they were just begging to be taken on a seaside stroll. But don't let the "Garden of Eden" theme scare you: Issa has made a name for itself by creating pieces that are feminine and pretty, yes, but also utterly wearable — and there's plenty of those options here. One mixed-print pants look in vibrant fuchsia, for example, would work just fine on any city street, while a series of embellished-hem fit-and-flare dresses in solid hues could easily go from day to night anywhere — and are sure to tempt Issa's biggest fan, Kate Middleton. And what about those knotted and draped jersey gowns in vivid hues that turned up midway through the show? Well, those are so sexy it's pretty easy to imagine them turning up on a red carpet sometime in the near future, too.
Henry Holland was clearly thinking about the '90s when he designed his Spring 2013 collection. The spirit of that decade was present in everything from his liberal use of tie-dye, small-scale florals, and checkered prints to the shapes sent down the runway. A slip dress in a brown-and-purple brocade featured a crossbody spaghetti strap that was a timely update of the '90s classic, while peplums on midriff tops and dresses pointed to the baby-doll dress. The season's requisite neon colors and sheer fabrics were there, too, brightening and lightening up the gentle hints of grunge spotted on oversize shirts and motorcycle jackets.
While it may be too early to say which of the styles recently spotted on New York's runways will turn out to be the It bags of Spring 2013, there are already plenty of contenders. From the checkered and chained clutches at Victoria Beckham to the boxy totes emblazoned with florals at 3.1 Phillip Lim, the possibilities are endless. To make the competition just a little easier, we've gathered up some of the best of them — and we'll be adding more as they come in. Start the bidding now.
Cover Photo: Greg Kessler
There's a second, quieter story on the runways this week, one that's hard to fully absorb as each collection quickly whizzes by. We're talking about shoes here, and buyers beware: next season's batch is filled with knockouts sure to test your budgetary willpower.
From the sweetly printed pumps with sleek metal heels at Kate Spade New York to the point d'esprit peep-toe booties at Jason Wu, these are the shoes that are already topping our wish list for Spring 2013 — up close and personal, straight from New York's recent runways. And like any good shopping list, ours is ever-growing, so we'll be adding more just as soon as they march in.
Some might argue that the best show of the week is not on the runways but on the street. Herein, our picks for the most gorgeous, inspiring, and awe-inducing looks to hit the sidewalks this New York Fashion Week. And, be sure to check back daily — we'll be adding more each day.
The designer detailed his complaints in a post called "The Uselessness of the National Fashion Chamber." In it, Cavalli explained that he usually shares the last day of the Milan shows with Giorgio Armani, and was counting on their combined star power to keep foreign journalists in town for a little while longer before they head off to Paris Fashion Week, which overlaps with Milan this season. But Armani is scheduled to show on Sunday, Sept. 23, and Cavalli's show is set for the following Monday, the 24th. Cavalli worried that some journalists may leave early to get settled in Paris before shows start early on Sept. 25.
"As usual, the Camera Nazionale della Moda is washing its hands of the situation and it will not go against the wishes of 'Little King' Armani, and therefore the problems are mine alone," he wrote. "What can I do? Do I stay the final day, running the risk that some foreign journalists will forego my show, or should I overlap with smaller fry, smaller brands, acting as some of my colleagues do?"
Cavalli isn't the only designer who's encountered scheduling problems in Milan. Last month, Jil Sander announced that she would schedule her own shows independently because she couldn't find an ideal time slot.
It's all about the finishing touches. The standout street-style stars from this New York Fashion Week combined their imaginative ensembles with some of the brightest, boldest shoes, handbags, and jewelry we've seen in seasons. From shoes with colorful Lucite heels to handbags shaped like the moon, here are the most creative accessories we saw during this very well-dressed week.
Childhood trips to Tijuana inspired Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock's Spring 2013 collection for Vena Cava. The offering was infused with the feeling of Summers spent south of the border: plenty of colorful stripes abounded on everything from jackets to skirts, while a triangle cutout detail decorated the necklines of a number of garments.
There were office-appropriate clothes (a pair of plain yet well-tailored black trousers comes to mind) as well as flirty cocktail frocks in vibrant colors and skirts in interesting prints. A feeling of inclusiveness made it an even richer offering. "The clothes are not just meant to look good on an 18-year-old model," Mayock said. "They are for real women to wear every day."
Source: Courtesy of Vena Cava
Cynthia Rowley's Spring 2013 collection found beauty in the decay of a decaying hotel in downtown New York City. And what better way to show a collection inspired by a dilapidated building than to cast models as partygoers inside of it?
That's exactly what Rowley did at 5 Beekman Street in New York on Thursday night. While confetti fell from the building's interior balconies onto the floor below, models stood for photographers wearing some of the most imaginative and restrained garments Rowley has cooked up yet. The emphasis in the clothing's shape was volume, but the designer covered her wide-legged pants and generous dresses with prints inspired by the peeling paint in the hotel, and foiled brocade was used to make a bomber jacket and matching shorts. And though the clothes were party ready, Rowley took that theme one step further by putting flask-shaped bracelets on all of her models.