While many designers referenced the '60s in their Spring 2013 collections, a handful — like Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2 — took their cues from the '90s. Specifically, the twins referenced the iconic Peter Lindbergh photo shoot for Vogue that put a bevy of supermodels in miniskirts and motorcycle jackets. Naturally, those items made up a healthy bit of the collection: there was lots of leather in the form of shirts, jackets, skirts, and dresses that grazed high on the models' thighs. And for a healthy bit of embellishment, the Catens paired their looks with pearls and gold chains with links the size of silver dollars.
Designers Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron worked an unmistakably minimalistic angle for Spring 2013. The duo sent down laser sharp pieces with clean lines in black and white. The only other color found in this collection were a few snakeskin dresses and shorts. There were hints of futuristic and origami details like fabric folds, exaggerated hips, asymmetrical necklines hems to keep things interesting. Belted dresses dominated, some mini and flirty, others maxi and more elegant. Sheer dresses and jackets, one-shoulder jumpsuits, and leather-sleeve jackets and dresses were all part of an undeniably chic Spring collection.
So many bags, so little time. The runways of Milan offered up so many styles — sleek minimalism at Marni, folksy craftwork at Dolce & Gabbana — that it's going to be awfully hard to pick a favorite come next season. Good thing there's still plenty of time to decide. Get started by peeking the best of the new batch here, in the slideshow.
There was no shortage of showstopping shoes on the runways of Milan. Not that anyone would expect any less. After all, the number of houses known for accessories — Fendi, Gucci, Prada, Ferragamo — on the city's Fashion Week calendar is enough to make anyone's head spin. Thank goodness, then, for runway close-ups: all the eye-popping details — from the leather metallic sock platforms at Prada to the cool colorblock leather at Fendi — are available for peeping. Click through to see the best shoes from the shows, in all their glory, here in the gallery.
Roberto Cavalli's signature brand of sex appeal got cleaned up for Spring 2013 with a collection that examined dark and light — both in fabrics and in the women who wear them. Cavalli's casting for this show put blond models in a wide variety of sweet all-white ensembles made from lace and laser-cut leather that simply looked like lace. These looks yielded to white pieces tinged with lime green or pale orange treatments like prints or more cutout leather. Eventually the mood darkened to not-so-basic black in looks frequently shown on brunette models: one blazer with embellished shoulders was paired with sheer black trousers, while a dress with dramatic, flesh-baring cutouts got the same glittery treatment. It was an interesting exercise in dressing different kinds of women from one point of view. And that focus on dressing women is part of what turned this offering into one of Cavalli's most appealing outings yet.
This year's Emmys may just have been the most fashionable yet. Christian Dior, Zac Posen, Jason Wu, and Dolce & Gabbana were all well-represented on the red carpet, and even better, the amount of stars who bucked the trend for cookie-cutter glamour and weren't afraid to experiment a bit seemed higher than ever. Perhaps it's all those front-row seats at Fashion Week and darkly dramatic magazine covers (ahem, Michelle Dockery)? Whatever the reason, it's definitely all for the better. Herein, our picks for who nailed it at the 2012 Emmys.
Softly tailored sportswear in hazy shades of gray opened Giorgio Armani's Spring 2013 show. With their subdued tones in liquid-like silk, they were elegant and understated elegant — and stood in a dramatic contrast to the glistening eveningwear in navy and black that closed the show. In between, there were organza and charmeuse tunics, dresses, and trousers in dreamy prints of pale blue and smoky lavender. And that's the beauty of Armani; he lets each look flow gently into one another seamlessly, like a story unfolding.
Massimiliano Giornetti distilled a romantic idea of the gaucho into his travel-ready, equestrian, and slightly masculine Spring 2013 collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. The offering was far too luxurious to herd any actual cattle in — unless you work on the kind of ranch where sleeveless crocodile shirts are part of the uniform — but it carried plenty of hints to its inspiration nonetheless. The opening salvo here was a rich black leather trench coat dressed up with crocodile sandal boots, and that look was followed quickly by a selection other coats with asymmetrical shapes and hidden closures. Likewise, the rest of the offering was pretty with a tough undercurrent. Giornetti answered the season's demand for lace and sheer insets with black mesh and a silvery open-weave sweater. Sparkle came in the form of gold- and silver-tone sequins that made a variety of garments look like chain mail.
Spring 2013 had Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce looking once again to their homeland of Sicily. But whereas last season was all romance and religion in the form of gilded embroidery and black lace, this time around the duo went cheery and bright with an ode to the island's vibrant street markets, puppet theaters, and beachy holidays in the sun. And just like any good vacation abroad, there was plenty here for the eye to take in: street-scene prints in saturated primary hues, beaded embroidery, raffia basket weave, still-life florals, tassels, and folksy appliqué. The adornments came affixed to nearly everything, from easy-wearing shifts, shorts, and t-shirt tops to more elaborate pieces like frothy dresses, basket skirts, and corsets. But the collection's real standouts were the multitude of boldly striped dresses, '50s-style shorts sets, and tunics in graphic lines of black, orange, green, or blue against crisp white. They served as a nice anchor to all the chaotic charm.
Angela Missoni isn't the first designer to send light, breezy clothing down the runway for Spring 2013, but the gauzy, sheer dresses she showed in Milan on Sunday were among the finest we've seen this season. What set this collection apart was how unMissoni many of its pieces were. The house's iconic multicolored knits were at once present and hidden, sometimes veiled by sheer layers of organza or stitched together in similarly colored fabrics that made their patterns more subtle. In other places, the collection simplified the Missoni chevron by zooming in on it and reducing it to stripes or triangular shapes. There were also a lot of pure-white pieces on this runway, inspired by an all-white Missoni suit that appeared on the cover of French Elle in the '60s. After all, you can't know where you're going unless you know where you've been.