Alexis Mabille said he designed his Spring 2013 collection for "a girl who stays in the city and doesn't care about the countryside." Maybe that explains why he paired so many of his colorful ensembles — think yellow or blue dresses with black lace overlays and lots of oversize gingham on pants, jackets, dresses, and everything in between — with tough black leather motorcycle boots. All in all, this was a new direction for Mabille: even his signature bow ties turned into functional ribbon drawstrings that gave structure to a shirtdress and allowed a few gowns to hang languidly from the neck. It seemed less about women as jewels (recall here the baubles that hung from his models' hair during his Fall 2012 Couture show) than about women as customers, which makes sense for this stage of Mabille's career. He'll celebrate the opening of his first store in Paris this week.
When a designer has his models drape jackets over their shoulders, you know it's going to be a superchic collection. Marcel Marongiu sent down sexy and strong looks like crop tops balanced by loose-fitting trousers, fitted dresses with plunging necklines, and all-white sporty tees with knee-length shorts. Navy, soft pink, teal, and aqua were also dominant colors on the catwalk, and a handful of printed pieces added variety among a sea of solids. Demure hemlines were the perfect counterbalance to all the sexy bodices for Spring 2013.
Those stories and more in our daily news roundup.
- Artist Kermit Oliver has designed a handful of luxurious silk scarf prints for Hermès — like the above work, titled "Faune et Flore du Texas" — since the late '80s, but he pays his bills working the night shift at the post office in Waco, TX. [Texas Monthly]
- Keija Minor became the first African American editor in chief at a Condé Nast publication when the publishing house announced she would replace Anne Fulenwider at Brides. Fulenwider is now the head editor at Marie Claire, replacing Joanna Coles, who left to lead Cosmopolitan. [Fashionista]
- Actress Emma Watson is "over the actor-designer thing," she says. "Models are actresses and actresses are models and actresses are designing sofas and it's crazy." [Nylon]
- Tom Ford says dressing Daniel Craig for the new James Bond movie, Skyfall, was a great opportunity, but not too much of a challenge. "We didn't really modify our suits, as James Bond is a bit like our guy — classic and extremely elegant," says Ford. [Vogue UK]
- "I don't like pants. I find they're less tomboyish," explains model Charlotte Kemp Muhl. "If I want to pee on the side of the road — which I do all the time — it's going to take way longer if I'm in pants." [StyleLikeU]
Photo via Piasa.
During a Q&A with the men's quarterly, available this week, Lagerfeld runs down a laundry list of things he won't wear, including t-shirts, hats, and hoodies. "With my hairdo, I can't wear hoods," he explains. A look at what else isn't in the Kaiser's closet, below.
On sweaters: "I don't wear sweaters a lot. I don't know why. I prefer woven material. It feels cleaner. When I wear knits, I have the feeling I get sloppy. For me it is too soft. I like hard wear. I like clothes with discipline, because I think you get more disciplined if you dress yourself in a disciplined way."
On vests and suspenders: "I don't like to wear waistcoats very much anymore. I hate to have something on the stomach. And I hate to wear suspenders. I have the feeling I'm wearing a bra."
On why he only wears custom-made Massaro boots: "Shoes have to be like gloves: flawless, impeccable. I hate sloppy footwear. What I hate most is flip-flops. I'm physically allergic to flip-flops."
Of the six seasons Missoni has been working with Converse, the two brands' newest partnership may have yielded their most exciting products yet. Twenty deadstock fabrics from the Missoni archives have been applied to Converse's iconic Pro Leather and Auckland Racer shoe designs, and will be sold at Colette in Paris starting this Friday, Sept. 28 — just in time for Paris Fashion Week. The unisex shoes are available in sizes 5 to 12, and will retail for €400 (about $520 at current exchange).
And if the inventive pairing of design and form didn't make this collaboration noteworthy enough, Converse enlisted artist Gary Card to create a special display for the shoes. A look at the products — and how they'll be displayed — here in the gallery.
Photos courtesy of Converse.
Anja Rubik, Karlie Kloss, Arizona Muse, Cara Delevingne, Joan Smalls, and Constance Jablonski were all easy smiles and casual merriment as they prepared for the Anthony Vaccarello show. In fact, the vibe backstage was so relaxed, despite the mob of photographers and the swarm of stylists surrounding each girl, the scene felt more like a group of friends getting ready for a night out than the moments before Paris Fashion Week's first major show. Perhaps the location — a cavernous space under the Cité de la Mode et du Design next to the Seine — had something to do with it. More likely, though, it was Vaccarello's sexy take on citified sportswear for Spring 2013 that had the models feeling so good.
In a crisp palette of black and white cotton and silk — and later, liquid-like lamé and metallic animal prints — the collection was filled with pieces that exude a certain youthful confidence. Miniskirts and one-shoulder dresses were draped and gathered in body-hugging layers around the hips and thighs, while asymmetrical cropped tops showed off the mid-drift. And though there were plenty more of Vaccarello's signature skin-revealing elements on display — thigh-high slits, cutouts, whisper-thin straps — the designer tempered them with crisp tailoring, cargo pockets, zips, epaulets, oversize grommets on boxy blouses, slouchy trousers, and double-breasted blazers.
"Up until I was about 30 to 32-years-old, I used to potter around doing a small job at a department store," Giorgio Armani said recently. "I used to coordinate what went into the window or other store tasks. And I didn't have to work very hard — because, well, I was quite good looking. The female managers in the shop used to favor me, making things really easy for me."
So when did Armani become the tireless businessman he is today? "I realized that I couldn't and didn't want to go on living like that — on the fringes of a beautiful profession, without working hard, without risking, without standing up for it," he said. "I had to somehow wake up and doing this made me into who I am today."
Mixed-up prints, bright hues, and vertiginous shoes — so far there's been so much eye candy on the streets of Milan that it's hard to even know where to look. It also doesn't hurt that some of the industry's best-dressed players are all in attendance: Anna Dello Russo, Elisa Nalin, Kate Lanphear, Natalie Joos, Giovanna Battaglia, and more. Click through to peek the best styles of Milan Fashion Week, and be sure to check back soon — we'll be adding more chic looks just as soon as they come in.
Cover Photo: Getty
If the name Fausto Puglisi doesn't sound familiar to you now, it will by next February when the young Italian designer debuts his first collection for Emanuel Ungaro.
Puglisi's new job is part of a licensing agreement between Ungaro and Italian clothing manufacturer Aeffe, which controls Moschino and Alberta Ferretti. Hopes are that Puglisi's design talent and Aeffe's resources will be able to bring the brand back to life after a series of designers who have left since 2007, including Esteban Cortozar (who refused to work with artistic adviser Lindsay Lohan), Estrella Archs, and Giles Deacon.
Most famously, Puglisi has dressed Anna Dello Russo, who's been a fan of his wares since he launched his own line two years ago. Puglisi has also dressed Beyoncé, M.I.A., Nicki Minaj, and Madonna's backup dancers for various performances. His aesthetic takes cues from his obsession with the Roman Empire. "For me, Rome means power, sex, decadence, delirium, skirts, pleats, peplums, embroidery," Puglisi once said. "And these words always inspire my work."
Does that mean Ungaro will take a leather-clad, militaristic turn into the future? Only time will tell. For now, a look at some of Puglisi's past work here in the gallery.
Photo via Fausto Puglisi.
Phillip Lim is the latest designer to offer up his Spring 2013 bags for preorder — and the pieces on offer couldn't be more exciting. The collection brought eye-catching updates to the brand's most iconic bags — like the popular Pashli satchel and a new drawstring bucket bag — in a colorful, floral digital print. Adding to his Spring lineup were sleek crossbodies and a black leather duffle with hardware-clad corners, which are sure to stand up to the heavy-duty use they are sure to be put through. Slated to ship in January, all of the bags are available right now on Moda Operandi.