For Spring 2013, Nicola Formichetti looked to the 1970s photos by Guy Bourdin, the Far East, and Wong Kar Wai's film In the Mood For Love. While those references weren't translated literally, they were there — especially in the form of lantern sleeves, golden embroidery, and origami pleating. In a palette of rust, mustard, gray, and green and in shiny fabrics like leather and vinyl, the collection was as sculptural and structured as we've come to expect from Formichetti's Mugler, but there were still plenty of wearable pieces. The opening series of fit-and-flare dresses were particularly appealing, as were several wide-sleeved t-shirt tops. And while Lady Gaga — who acted as musical director — was a no show in the front row, there was an exciting appearance of another kind: the first Mugler handbags. Those came in the form of clasp-topped clutches and boxy satchels; one was even inspired by Gaga's backside.
Free People assembled a trio of fashion's coolest women, including Garance Doré, Lou Doillon, and Dree Hemingway, for its colorful October catalog.
While Hemingway posed for photographer Chadwick Tyler, Doré shot and interviewed Doillon in and around her home. "I like the idea of having a lot of things, and I like having houses that make people want to stay," Doillon says. The same idea extends to the Fall garments from Free People: chunky knitwear, cozy sweaters, lived-in boots, and soft denim are exactly the kinds of clothes necessary for Fall. A look at the catalog here in the gallery.
Photos courtesy of Free People
Photographer Greg Kadel is not pleased that one of the images he took of Karlie Kloss for Numéro magazine's October issue were altered to hide the model's ribs.
"It was Greg's desire to represent Karlie as she naturally is . . . slender, athletic, and beautiful," a statement from Kadel's studio reads. "That is why he released the images as he intended them to be seen by the public. He is shocked and dismayed that unbeknownst to him, Numéro took it upon themselves to airbrush over his original images. Greg stands by his original artwork and cannot stress enough that he not only was unaware of the magazine’s retouching but also finds the airbrushing of Karlie unacceptable and unnecessary."
Kadel released his photos on Monday, but by Tuesday, an image from the magazine — in which a shirtless Kloss places her hands behind her head and leans back against a wall — was leaked. The original showed Kloss's ribs, sternum, and clavicles; the magazine's version did not.
We have reached out to the editors at Numéro for their reaction to criticism of their decision to alter Kadel's images, but had not heard back as of this post. For now, a look at Kadel's original photos — and the altered image — here in the gallery.
Photos via Greg Kadel.
For Spring 2013, Martine Sitbone showed a collection that was whimsical with hints of futurism and a nod to mod. The whimsy came through in oversize polka dots and laser cutouts on dresses and coats. Leather jackets and pops of black lent a serious undertone, while shift dresses were pure '60s. A handful of colorblock pieces with large square pockets kept things from being too retro and loose-fitting silhouettes throughout offered up a relaxed, sporty air.
Formichetti said Tuesday that while this season's show wouldn't be live streamed, he would release a video on Wednesday "with new show music by Lady Gaga." Just last week, he tweeted at the singer, saying he was "so excited to see my lady." (A Gaga devotee from Azerbaijan later declared that the performer would reprise her role as music director for Mugler.)
Banks tweeted at Formichetti that she was in Paris this morning. The two collaborated on the music video for Banks's song "Liquorice," and the 21-year-old may well be the "special live guest" mentioned on the invitation to the Mugler afterparty. A list of DJs on the invite includes The Misshapes, Tommy Saleh, Christopher Kutlesa, Franco V, Mademoiselle Stephanie, and Nicopanda — Formichetti's nickname.
Kim Kardashian also exchanged missives with Formichetti last week, saying she couldn't wait — although what she couldn't wait for was unspecified. Perhaps she was referring to being one of the first recipients of Mugler's new handbag line, which will be unveiled at tonight's show. Formichetti sent bags from the debut collection — which includes a model shaped like Lady Gaga's backside — to Kardashian, Beyoncé, Rihanna, and Gwen Stefani. Whether Kardashian will thank Formichetti for the bag in person tonight remains to be seen.
Photo: Lady Gaga and Nicola Formichetti bow after the Fall 2011 show for Mugler.
Talking jovially with reporters, Marant looked right at home in the airy, multilevel space, and clad in slim grey jeans, a leather jacket, and high-heeled embroidered booties — all from her line — she was the very picture of Parisian cool. She was so incredibly cool, in fact, that it was not at all hard to understand how Marant's particular breed of chic has yielded such an enormous fan base or flagships in eight countries with more on the way. But when it comes to dishing out aesthetic advice or recommending specific wardrobe pieces, the designer is adamant that the only way to cultivate a rich sense of style is to be true to yourself.
"I won't say, 'You must have a miniskirt.' If you don't have nice legs, it won't work out. It's not a question of must haves: it's more about finding yourself. Who you are, what fits you, what you feel confident in — it's more about feeling confident than having whatever look."
Fashion tips aside, there is one thing the designer is happy to recommend: music. "The Lou Doillon album is really great. I think it was quite hard for her to issue it because she comes from such a notable family, but she really succeeds." And what is Marant's preferred way to listen? "Alone. I prefer to hear music when it's really loud, and when I need to speak with people, it becomes too distracting. When I'm alone, I listen to a lot of rock because I love the energy of it; it gives me the attitude I want to have for my girls."
Gareth Pugh has officially gone medieval — but not in a Game of Thrones or theme park kind of way. For Spring 2013, the British expatriate took some of the shapes and feelings of that murky time several hundred years before the Renaissance and distilled them into a near-futuristic collection of dresses with angel sleeves, portrait necklines, and flashes of embellishment restrained by a limited color palette. The first exit was a model in a black gown wearing a black veil elevated from her head by a cylindrical headpiece. That was followed by more black (this is Gareth Pugh we're talking about, after all) and others in a silvery gray and fiery red. While the all the pieces were subtle in their decoration — one black jacket had laser-cut sleeves in an interesting pattern — the red dresses were particularly interesting. One red shirt was mostly ruffles, while a pair of red bell bottoms got a dramatic hit of movement courtesy of two fluttering panels of fabric attached to each leg.
There was an optimistic sportiness in Marco Zanini's outing at Rochas on Wednesday that didn't simply come from the white wrestling boots he paired with the looks he sent down the runway. For all their fine fabrication (taffeta here, cloque there) and ladylike posturing, the garments in this collection looked as though they were made to move. Sure, there were bralette tops, easy shirtdresses, and a gauzy pleated skirt that left a slipstream of fabric trailing close behind the model wearing it on the runway. But there were also polo shirts (tucked into skirts or elongated into dresses in their own right), luxe three-quarter-length cardigans, and midriff-baring, well, everything that were as easy to slip on as they were to look at and admire.
Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane have widely been regarded as rivals thanks to the timing of their appointments at Dior and Yves Saint Laurent, respectively, but how will these newcomers challenge other, more established designers in Paris?
"I think it's something that a lot of people are feeling and thinking about, and I love competition because it moves me forward," said Alber Elbaz during a preview of Lanvin's Spring 2013 show. "You know, I'm not a jealous person. I'm only jealous of people who can eat and don't gain weight. It motivates all of us to work harder and find solutions."
Ron Frasch, chief merchandising officer of Saks Fifth Avenue, put a finer point on how Simons and Slimane will force other designers to push their own boundaries.
"Everyone's going to be looking not to be outshone," he said. "You're talking about supercompetitive designers. Believe me, they're going to want to up their game."
It's no secret that Dries Van Noten has a way with mixing prints, textures, and colors. For Spring 2013, he put that skill to stellar use with a collection that blended languid, vaguely '90s silhouettes with mis-matched patterns in refined fabrics. Plaid featured heavily; it came in the form of airy chiffons and crepe du chine. Layered with metallic-threaded floral jacquards and an oversized lurex herringbone in softly-tailored shapes, it made for a collection that felt free-spirited, yet rooted in an utterly wearable and refined reality. "I wanted to go back to having fun with clothes," the designer explained. "It’s everything that I love. It has that kind of menswear/womenswear, kind of grungy, spontaneous feel."