For Fall 2013, Thom Browne could have capitalized on his new widespread fame as the man who dressed First Lady Michelle Obama for the inauguration, but he stayed on his own wild, theatrical path that he has always been known for in the smaller fashion community. Conjuring images of Alice in Wonderland and fantastical fairy tales, Browne sent out sharp, exaggerated shoulder jackets with full skirts, all over tights adorned with 3D roses (models also carried rose bouquets in hand). While not exactly ready for stepping straight off the runway and onto Pennsylvania Avenue, the clothes demand your full attention — and interpretation.
John Galliano's stint working in Oscar de la Renta's studio might just be extended into a full-time job — if Galliano wants it, that is.
"I would love for him to stay," de la Renta told The Cut in an interview. "Will he? I cannot tell you that today because we haven't gone that far in really discussing it. The fact is, we work very differently in New York than in Paris. It's night and day. We work at a much faster pace. So the answer is we don't know. We're still exploring."
But Galliano has had a little bit of time to adjust to the pace of an American fashion house. De la Renta shocked the industry in January when he welcomed Galliano to his studio on a three-week residency, later revealing that Anna Wintour asked him to bring Galliano in. He says the former Dior designer has had an impact on his Fall 2013 collection, which will be presented tomorrow.
"I like hearing what he thinks should be changed and improved about each piece that we are showing in the fall collection. I am not a loner," he said. "In fact, my Achilles' heel is being alone. I've said that when I am designing a collection, I wish the Virgin Mary would sit next to me."
The 3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2013 show is always one of the hottest tickets of New York Fashion Week. And why not? The fashion flock certainly loves to wear his work from head to toe. This season's offering didn't disappoint. There were side-zipped tops, elongated moto vests, layered coats, and slouchy tapered pants sure to delight Lim's downtown crowd, and luxe cross-body bags and chiffon dresses with sparkles at the neck just perfect for his uptown fans. The see-and-be-seen pieces came in the form of wildly embellished denim — just made for street-style snaps.
Donna Karan went sensual for Fall 2013, wrapping her lithe models in sinuous jersey and decadent furs. The designer stuck to an earthy palette, showing a particularly strong section of deep chocolate brown. Coats and suits were structured with cape-like details, while dresses lay closer to the body, accented with bold bib necklaces. Evening took the overall theme up a notch, with intricately pieced and draped gowns.
- Katie Grand, Editor-in-Chief of Love, says that this month's Kate Moss shoot with Tim Walker taps into her love of British models: "I don’t think they take the whole modeling thing so seriously and generally know how to have a good time," she commented. [Nowness]
- Keep an eye out for Karlie Kloss and Pastry Chef Christina Tosi, who will be handing out Karlie's Kookies from a "Kookie Truck" at Lincoln Center on Wednesday. [PS Fashion News Inbox]
Phillip Limtapped Alexis Bittarto design a custom pair of earrings for today's runway show. [WWD]
- Are flash-sale sites losing their luster? A few industry experts think so. [WWD]
- Countess Louise J. Esterhazy, who wrote for WWD in the '70s, has returned to the publication with a monthly column. Her first piece recounts an evening she once spent with Coco Chanel. [PS Fashion News Inbox]
- Julia Restoin Roitfeld, who had daughter Romy last May, will soon launch an online publication dedicated to motherhood. [Telegraph]
- Asos is offering a 25 percent discount just for college students until midnight tomorrow. [Asos]
- Have We Met Before, the short film for Donna Karan's new line of hosiery will star Angelica Houston. [New York Post]
- In other Donna Karan news, the designer has teamed up with Rent the Runway to design an exclusive collection of rentable eveningwear. [Rent the Runway]
These stories and more here, in our daily news roundup.
Olivier Theyskens's Fall 2013 collection for Theyskens' Theory was all about volume. The designer worked a lot of space into a series of short trapeze and cocoon dresses rendered in a mostly black, gray, and cream palette. Nearly every other piece in the offering tended to float away from the body, including a black blazer that was paired with a leather A-line skirt, and several generous shirts and pieces of outerwear. Our full review will be posted shortly. In the meantime, a first look at the collection here in the gallery.
How Karlie Kloss managed to look so fresh when she sauntered onto the runway at Carolina Herrera's Fall 2013 collection after walking the red carpet at the Grammys last night, we may never know. Kloss opened what would turn into a strong and glamorous collection wearing a white and yellow printed gown accented by a black ribbon bow tie at the neck. A series of dresses in a rich color palette of blue, emerald green, and burgundy followed it, with Herrera's signature polish sparkling from spangled evening gowns in cream. Our full review will be posted shortly. In the meantime, a first look at the collection here in the gallery.
On a checkerboard runway in a cavernous Park Avenue Armory transformed to look like Harry Potter's library, Tommy Hilfiger sent out a tight lineup filled with Prince of Whales plaid, argyle, and herringbone. The theme was "Savile Row meets Ivy League" with a nice dose of '60s, and thus there was a preppy-mod tinge to these well-tailored clothes. Coats of every kind — peacoats, boyfriend blazers, duffles, and parkas — dominated every look. Meanwhile a strict palette of cream, navy, red, and khaki kept the whole thing feeling fresh and neat — just the way a Hilfiger collection should be.
With Karlie Kloss and Alexa Chung on the red carpet, this may have been the chicest Grammys yet. The MTV House of Style host and supermodel — who has been conspicuously absent from this week's New York Fashion Week runways — looked sleek in a body-con Michael Kors cutout dress, while Chung looked sweet in a pale-yellow corseted Valentino dress. See those looks — and peek at who else made our top 10 list from Sunday's Grammy Awards red carpet — right here, in the slideshow.
People expect a lot of things from a Zac Posen show. Glamour, elegance, sublimely seamed dresses just begging to be worn to a red-carpet affair, and of course, starlets in the front row. What they don't usually expect, however, is day wear. At Posen's Fall 2013 show today at New York's Plaza Hotel, they got all that — and much more. With a new focus on separates, the designer sent out a breathtaking lineup that included a structured pod coat in camel-colored wool cashmere, tiered chiffon skirts, embroidered lamé tweed peplum blazers, and cropped velvet pants. Click through to see the full collection; our full review is coming soon.