Atari asteroid prints, padded shoulders, and slim-hipped silhouettes dominated Scott Sternberg's Fall 2013 collection for Band of Outsiders. The vibe was vaguely '80s secretary with a heavy dose of elfin quirk, thanks to the knit turban caps and giant fur stoles that decorated each look.
A roving band of gypsies, tramps, and thieves was the basis of Mara Hoffman's Fall 2013 inspiration. Her focus on prints turned in this offering to the textiles of Turkey and Uzbekistan, with leopard and zebra stripes thrown in for good measure. Bright colors like turquoise, pink, and yellow give the prints an optical appeal. Our full review will be posted shortly. In the meantime, enjoy a first look at the collection.
Prabal Gurung sent out a stellar lineup for Fall 2013 that was steeped in military references and filled with feminine power. The designer said he was inspired by the Pentagon's recent decision to allow women in combat as well as the development of body armor specifically designed for the female form, and thus were plenty of utilitarian details on display. Leather harnesses, buckled straps, epaulets, and cargo pockets all made appearances, but it was Gurung's sharp tailoring and the addition of his signature embroideries that really gave the collection its real strength. Second-skin jackets in olive wool packed a punch thanks to peplums that flared dramatically from narrow waists, while swirling embellishments in crimson and gold added spice to off-the-shoulder dresses of buttery charmeuse.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista's Fall 2013 collection for Lacoste made it seem as though he can predict the weather. This collection, sporty in its attitude and precise in its construction and presentation, featured prints of icebergs all too reminiscent of the masses of snow the show's attendees had to slog through on Saturday morning. The designer used boiled wool and mohair to give his outerwear extra warmth, and injected flashes of orange, blue, and bright green into an otherwise pale gray offering. Baptista used transparent rain slickers to protect some of his ensembles, but many of them looked warm enough to stand up to the elements on their own.
Leave it to Suno's Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty to make daring pattern combinations look downright chic. For Fall 2013, a season in which other designers have used bold flashes of color or shown an allegiance to one family of graphics, this duo stuck to their signature master mixing and fused pinstripes, paisley, florals, dots, jacquard, and plaid together with pleasing visual harmony. Three-dimensional decorations included the Swarovski crystals arranged in a geometric pattern on a final grouping of neoprene pieces and tassels that trimmed a tunic and a pair of trousers.
The weather outside may have been frightful, but inside the Helmut Lang Fall 2013 show it was all about sleek Winter layers and angular lines. Superthick wool, metallic-coated leather, sturdy felt, and bits of fur were patched together in geometric panels on coats and blazers, while graffitied expressionist prints decorated straight-cut shifts and pants. Design duo Nicole and Michael Colovos said they were inspired by last Fall's "Picasso Black and White" exhibit at the Gagosian Gallery, and thus they stuck to a mostly tonal palette of gray, ivory, black, and white.
There's a toughness in Marcus Neville and David Wainwright's Fall 2013 collection for Rag & Bone, and it might come from their abundant use of houndstooth with a little bite. The duo showed the pattern in some bold iterations: monochromatic on sweaters and skirts, or oversize and multicolored on other pieces of knitwear. Of course, the motorcycle chic matelassé pieces (a pair of gray trousers stuck out) helped with that feeling, as did the no-nonsense hair and makeup the models wore. Pops of bright color — an orange lapel here, a royal-blue ribbed collar there — were inspired by the uniforms Pan Am flight attendants wore in the '60s, and by blaze-colored gear ground crews use to stand out on the runway.
Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs must be in a romantic mood for Fall 2013. Sure, there were plenty of the duo's signature femme-fatale dresses in the mix — complete with cutouts, lace-ups, and curve-hugging seams — but this time around there was also something new: seperates with roomier silhouettes and a hint of modesty. Long, flowing maxi dresses, a-line flared skirts, and boxy jackets in rubberized wool (the most striking of which were lined with fur) looked right at home with the label's more hard-lined pieces — and proved that Cushnie and Ochs know exactly what a woman wants to wear. One dress in particular, — a well-balanced mix of sexy and sweet in luxe, hunter green silk with teasing double slits — is sure to top many a wishlist come next Fall.
Hot on the heels of dressing Michelle Obama for the Inaugural Ball, Jason Wu sent out an utterly sophisticated Fall 2013 collection that spoke directly to powerful, grown-up women. With a strict color palette of black, white, bright red, and deep violet, Wu went deep into tailoring with outstanding outerwear that included sexy, structured lace trench coats. There was more than a hint of classic YSL in the narrow black pantsuits with stiff white collared blouses that hinted at Le Smoking, while leather-edged black fur boleros nodded ever so to the chubby. The collection was as sophisticated as the crowd at the Park Avenue venue, with perfectly coiffed actress Jaime King perched front row.
Kate Spade New York returned to its roots for Fall 2013, celebrating NYC glam in honor of the brand's 20th anniversary. With iconic checkered cabs scattered throughout the presentation, models showed off strong outerwear, cheeky hats, and shimmering shoes. They also collaborated with Craig Redman on the collection, resulting in a signature image that turned up on an adorable wool sweater. And you can't talk about Kate Spade New York without discussing the bags, which ranged from book-themed minaudières to colorblocked satchels in shades of fuchsia and red to oversize clutches in angular bow shapes. Proudly showing off the collection was creative director Deborah Lloyd and brand stylist Brad Goreski.