Hedi Slimane was in a grunge state of mind for Fall 2013. With a booming soundtrack by Thee Oh Sees, models (like Hanne Gaby Odiele, Lindsey Wixson, and Cara Delevingne) hit the runway in barely-there tartan plaid and floral-sequined babydoll dresses, many of which were topped with open flannel shirts or cozy Fair Isle cardigans. But Slimane hasn't lost his rocker edge; there was still plenty of that. Leather was a predominant motif in the collection; it came in the form of slashed leggings, soft peacoats, and a flurry of sexy minidresses that closed the show. The classic YSL motifs were also still there — a bow at the neck, fur chubbies, the Smoking tuxedo jacket — just shot through with a distinct edge. No flou in this lean collection; just storytelling and the craftsmanship that the house is known for.
- Heidi Klum announced via Twitter that she will be the new judge on America's Got Talent. [Twitter user HeidiKlum]
- Condé Nast International has invested $20 million in Farfetch. This is the largest ecommerce deal to date for the publishing house. [WWD]
- Natalia Vodianova proved that she is as good of an athlete as she is a model yesterday when she completed a half marathon before closing the Givenchy Fall 2013 show. [Telegraph]
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What happens when a designer known for making feminine clothing borrows from the boys? For Fall 2013, Giambattista Valli fused his womanly aesthetic with sporty menswear staples like parkas, sweatshirts, and sneakers.
But an ode to androgyny this was not. The first few looks down the runway, mostly white and cream, combined garments like a safari vest with a chiffon cocktail dress, or paired a skirt in the floaty material with a crisp white shirt and an overcoat with a fur-lined hood. That dichotomy played out through the rest of the show, with Valli eventually succumbing to his penchant for glamorous women's clothing. A suit in a floral print was paired with a shirt whose ruffles spilled out of the blazer, and the last few looks served up the kind of sparkly red-carpet glamour Valli is known for.
Talk about perfect timing. Less than three weeks after taking her bow at Gucci's Fall 2013 show, Frida Giannini has given birth to a girl.
Giannini and di Marco announced they were expecting a child last November, but the excitement of the new addition hasn't slowed down the designer's schedule. She's expected to go on maternity leave until it's time to work on her upcoming menswear collection, which will be presented in June.
Photo via Gucci's Facebook page.
With a front row that included Jessica Chastain, Frank Ocean, Amanda Seyfried, Kanye West, and Kim Kardashian, Riccardo Tisci's Fall 2013 show for Givenchy was among the buzziest of Paris Fashion Week outings yet. Thanks to a live performance by Antony Hegarty of Antony and the Johnsons and the imposing circular runway at Halle Freyssinet, it was also one of the more theatrical.
Work, work, work. That seems to be where Phoebe Philo's head was while designing her Fall 2013 collection for Céline: on how to make it easier for her customers with full-time jobs and even fuller lives to get dressed in the morning. And while she cast away the impractical — if entertaining — fur booties and slippers she showed for Spring, she continued to build on last season's soft tailoring.
That meant the cuts in this offering were languid and generous. Pastel-colored coats with huge lapels and rounded shoulders looked cozy, while circle skirts, dresses, and warm knits looked easy to slip into. But Philo always finds a way to make a statement, and she did that by tying her models up in the sleeves of a few coats and dresses. Perhaps that was a word of caution to her customers: do your job well, but don't let it swallow you.
Under the leaded glass art nouveau ceiling of the grand Le Centorial building in Paris's second arrondissement, Bill Gaytten sent out a crisp Fall 2013 collection filled with cozy fabrics and ladylike shapes. Pencil skirts and slim knit dresses came ruched down the center or gathered at the sides, while felted wool coats and capes came cut amply through the shoulders and sleeves. And though the color palette stayed mostly in the darker-shades-of-neutral range, there was one series of looks in an abstract black-on-white print that felt really fresh.
Clare Waight Keller's show notes for Chloé's Fall 2013 collection described a myriad of inspirations: night buses, independent spirit, bare legs, bike sheds, flirting, cold nights, and tough girls. How all that translates to the actual pieces on the runway is anyone's guess, but that doesn't really matter. These were great clothes.
Ennio Capasa's Fall 2013 collection for Costume National brought a renewed focus to streamlined, minimal, and ultimately essential clothing. Rendered primarily in a palette of black, navy, and white with a few pieces in a navy-and-burgundy striped jacquard, these clothes did away with the artful decorations Capasa applied last season (and the avant-garde attitude he applied in previous outings) and focused on cut and tailoring. The show opened with a few riffs on the tuxedo, followed by a cape piped with satin. A fur vest provided warmth over a shirt with sheer sleeves, and the one all-red look on the runway stood out from the dark looks.