>> Francisco Costa was busy playing host Monday night at Calvin Klein's joint party with Visionaire, but today he sent out the label's diaphanous Cruise 2010 collection, without a bikini or caftan in sight. The resort season has been noticeably growing in scope this time around, and though Cathy Horyn was a fan of Costa's semi-sheer fabrics, WWD cautioned:

A long-standing argument against such [formal runway] presentations for resort is that inevitably, some designers will crossover to the too-editorial side . . . Francisco Costa went too far with the clothes in a season endlessly touted as all about dressing for reality — nearly every piece was transparent . . . almost everything needed an underpinning, and anyone wanting to know what Calvin Klein resort will look like in the stores needs a trip to the showroom.